BXProject

[mickey taker]

well since I have owned the car it has now had

new oil ,filter , plugs , air filter, cam cover gasket ,accumulator sphere ,and front pads .

I am trying to source a heater tap before I fit my replacement heater panel and I also have a new fuel filter to fit

shes driving just fine and I know Jay did the cambelt before I bought it ,the car had 93,500 miles on it then so am guessing cam belt was done around 90,000 ( I understand these should be done every 30/36,000 miles,)

so my question is , do I just drive and enjoy it for the next 6,000 miles or should I be looking to replace or at least check anything in the mean time ? (apart from tyre pressures , oil and water )

also do I have to drain the fuel tank to change the filter or is there a way of blocking the fuel line while I do it ?

are ther any improvements/upgrades I should consider making to the car
like different brake pads , bigger throttle bodies ( how much would they cost and are they worth it )
finally can the oil pump be changed with the engine in the car , it seems fine (pressure between 4 and 6 when running )but if its an easy swap I would rather do it sooner than later .

sorry to ask so many questions but I want to keep the car for as long as possible and would rather spend a bit of money now than loads later due to something I could have prevented

[Vanny]

if the engine works, dont fuck with it (see i'm learning)


THE fuel filter is a dodle to swap, two hose clips, whip it off and shove new one back in. Not sure if it will setup a syphon and try to empty the tank, but just stick your finger over the end, its easy to put the new filter in one handed, oh and i'f your clever you can pickup plastic ones now!

As for the tap, give me a call (will pm you a number shortly)


Its a car, they rust! Find the start of the rust and stop it! You'll have rust on it somewhere, and probably a hole too, just need to find it

[docchevron132]

shes driving just fine and I know Jay did the cambelt before I bought it ,the car had 93,500 miles on it then so am guessing cam belt was done around 90,000 ( I understand these should be done every 30/36,000 miles,)

Er, well, yeah, but I'd NEVER leave a belt on a D6C that long. Unless you drive like Miss Marple I'd say 20K miles is plenty. I do mine every 10K miles, but I'm anal.

so my question is , do I just drive and enjoy it for the next 6,000 miles or should I be looking to replace or at least check anything in the mean time ? (apart from tyre pressures , oil and water )

Regular checks are always good, since they can highlight a problem before it becomes a big problem.
A BX is a BX, regardless of what engines in it.
So the odd check of the basics, levels, tyres, lights, odd noises, hose condition, HP pipe condition etc is never a bad thing.

also do I have to drain the fuel tank to change the filter or is there a way of blocking the fuel line while I do it ?

No mate, when you pull the pipes off the filter, you'll loose a bit of fuel, but not alot. Only the contents of the filter and the pipe from the pick up.
They can be a bit fiddly actually, but easy enough to see and get at.
Always use new pipe clips, since the old ones have probably been on there for 300 years and will be wank.
The system runs under a fair bit of pressure so duff clips will empty the tank / cause a fire in seconds.

are ther any improvements/upgrades I should consider making to the car

How much you want to spend??!!

like different brake pads

Standard pads are just fine, unless you're going racing, in which case EBC Green Stuff Pads are very good,although they dont bite too well when they're cold.

bigger throttle bodies ( how much would they cost and are they worth it )

Kitch has bigger throttle bodies, as do several others. In short, unless you're going to fit higher lift cams, triple angle valves and re-map the ECU they just aint worth bothering with.
Same goes for induction kits, they are a waste of money.
A D6C in good condition is plenty fast enough standard.
Citroën actually designed that engine VERY VERY well (ok, so it's a pug lump but it's all PSA). The old addage of "if it aint broke, dont fix it" really is the score with these engines.

finally can the oil pump be changed with the engine in the car , it seems fine (pressure between 4 and 6 when running )but if its an easy swap I would rather do it sooner than later .

First, it's safe to assume that the original oil gauge is for nothing other than decoration, they are notoriously unreliable and inaccurate.
However, if you needle doesn't jump around and drop out every so often, then it's safe to assume that it's reasonable.
You'll know VERY quickley if the oil pump is failing since the hydraulic lifters will start rattling like a bastard, followed by the bottom end knocking badly, followed by opening your wallet and leaving the car with the doc for a week!

Yes, the pump is a piece of piss to change with the engine in the car, but they are VERY reliable and VERY well made. If it aint broke.....

If you do change the pump, then prime the new one before fitting it, otherwise it'll never ever pump.

As for other mods....well... other than badges and stuff, the cars very good as is.

[mickey taker]

thanks for the quick replies guys

ok will reschedule cam belt for about 110,000 miles

will do fuel filter and pipe clips over next couple of days along with checking the hoses and HP oil pipe

oh and I just remembered I still have to sort out the reversing lights



I am very happy with the cars performance although I dont often get the chance to use it fully so will leave the rest well alone

still havent found any rust ( yet ) apart from the bit on the sunroof cable cover ,
I may pop it down to my friendly garage and put it on there ramps for a cursory look over the underside and the pipework just to be on the safe side

[docchevron132]

If you get it on a ramp, check everthing very carefully.

The metal fuel lines under the car can and do rust.
As do the front to rear HP pipes, especially where they run up the side of the fuel tank, over the rear axle and along the axle.

If they look wanked, re-pipe with stainless unions and Kunifer pipe, it's the choice of champions!

Valvers start to wake up at around 4500rpm, they REALLY wake up at 5500rpm. Fuel consumption goes through the floor, but the grin gets VERY VERY big!!