BXProject

[Fish_Botherer]

I chickened out of replacing a balljoint for the time being on someone else's BX recently, as I recall tales of them requiring significant "persuasion" during removal, and couldn't quite match up what I could see and feel on the car with the replacement I had in my hand. Also, time was getting tight. In the end I nipped-up the rather floppy but intact BJ on the car rather more tightly than the way I found it with the result that the previously-very-evident clunk on that side stopped for now.

Advice would be greatly appreciated:

(1) Are the originals just like the threaded replacements I have, with the four slots on the rim below the thread at 90 degrees to each other?

(2) If so, is it a case of chisel-in-slot, hit with appropriate designer violence in the required direction? After reading of the doc's fairly recent experience with BJs, I'm glad to say that cow-shit is thankfully pretty rare where I live, though the air may be a little saltier near the Solent.

(3) Are there any alternatives to the Citroen tool or hammer-and chisel? Someone mentioned a "C-spanner" (?) or something similar, though my guess is a significant length of scaffold pole would be needed for leverage in conjunction with any such tool.

(4) Hub on-car or off-car for removal/replacement?

[Philhod]

Ah. We moved from TRE to btm ball joint.

1 I's 12 months since I did one asnd got my replacement one from Citroen (Rigbye's)

2 The short answer is.... yes but use a piece of M.S. bar instead of a chisel.

3 I don't know what your facilities are but I made a Y piece with the top bit curved.
drilled through the ends of the Y more or less in line, drove a piece of 1/4 bar into one end sticking through inside about the depth of the slot it goes into.
The other end I tapped and screwed a hardened screw into (one of those with a square end on)
the Y tail piece is about 400mm long, once you have engaged the plain side of Y piece in slot screw other end into opposite slot....comes straight off.
Reassembly is........etc.

4 Err.....on. that would be sir

[docchevron132]

Replacements are as per original with the four slots, and yes, a bar with hammer is often times the way to get them fuckers off.

So remember you'll need a fine sharp chisel to beat the peened edges down on the back face of the hub carrier.

Personally I find it easier and just as quick to take the hub off complete and do it in a vice.

Equally, the proper tool (like the hardened proper tool) in an impact wrench is fucking A!

[Bx Bandit]

I've never tried to do one on the car itself and have always removed the hub carrier and placed in the vice as per Doc. I have said four pronged removal tool that has done a few ball joints.

As well as a vice you'll need a 35mm socket, a breaker bar and 3ft scaffold pole. A tip I got from sleepy is that some were also 'loctit-ed' in (erroneously apparently) and so the use of a blow torch will be required if this is the case BUT be careful not to wield it close to the wheel bearing!

You can have a lend of the tool if you like Dave....let me know your address if you want it. Use a washer or two and the ball joint nut to keep the removal tool in location with the lugs.

If you don't have the replacement already................go for lemforoder (as per the TRE's) as they seem to last waaaaaaaay longer!

[docchevron132]

Indeed, if you go to Cit main stealer and get a genuine BJ, you get a lemforder BJ ina citroen box for more money...

Oh the irony.

[Philhod]

Well I've done about 10 in the past and only once had a problem (about 6 ago) That's when I made the tool I described before. I had to use a length of pipe as well, must've been a locted one Bandit.
Never taken the hub off and never had any real problems with them.

I know it's 12 months back, but I only paid 16 quid at Rigbye's. Dunno what type it was it just said Citroen on the box

[Fish_Botherer]

Thanks to all for the advice which gives a much better idea of how to proceed. I feel a little vindicated as someone around at the time was telling me that a BJ would be dead easy - until I went to get the BJ fom home and pointed out the slotted arrangement. I have a couple sitting around that I bought from GSF for a previous BX. They aren't Lemforder

I don't have too much in the way of facilities - but will show the hammer/bar and Y-bar methods to the BX's owner (he may be able to construct something like the Y-bar with his facilities). All this assumes he wants the job done if it remains clunk-free (yes, I know it ought to be done as the BJ was extremely floppy).

Thanks Bandit for the offer of the tool - will be in touch if it's needed.

[Vanny]

I've the proper tool. Used to take the hub off, set fire to the fucker for a bit, then unwind with tool. Then i started doing the same but leaving the hub ob the car. The last two i've done (and all future ones i'll do), i beat the shit out of it with a club hammer and chisel. More satisfying, less hassle, and much more energetic!