BXProject

[Philhod]

Grating sound coming from rear. Turns out to be new shoes needed. Just picked a set up today, so I think I'll do them this w/end while the sun shines.
Not done drum brakes for years

[mat_the_cat]

Funny you should say that - had a seized adjuster on the van so had to pop a drum off to free it up. Undid the securing screw, drum still solid. That's odd, thought I, as last time I took them off it wasn't an issue. Fortunately VW provided 3 tapped holes in the drum so you can draw it off if it sticks.

Before I rummaged for some bolts I released the handbrake, and coincidentally the drum came off quite easily

[docchevron132]

coincidences can be pretty coincidental sometimes...

[Philhod]

Well one side was straight forward. The other side however had a leaky cylinder.
Nipped out and bought a new one for 8 quid but could I get the pipe released, could I fuck.
Ended up chewing the fucking thing to buggery and had to get a new pipe. Even Rigbye's had none in stock so I only got it today. No probs other end came straight off, so job done.
Everything was remarkably clean and rust free considering it's 10 years old now and the back brakes have never been touched before.
Ripping the handbrake handle up and down about 50 times re sets it.
Just a tip for anyone not conversant with drums, If you clamp the pistons into the cylinder, it's a lot easier to bleed the thing without all the other stuff in place

[mat_the_cat]

If the pipe nut starts to get reluctant I tend to just cut the pipe and use a 6 pointed socket on it, admittedly I'm usually working on stuff that's older than that and would usually benefit from re-piping anyway. Brakes are a sore point ATM, 4 out of the 7 bleed screws on the van either snapped off or crumbled away so I'm having a bugger of a job to bleed it

[Philhod]

Well that was the point there was nothing wrong with the pipe, they have quite a thick shiny black paint on them, Just that it was seized and I couldn't finish the job in one go.

On old stuff like you say Mat you are faced with decay.
If the bled screw is fucked but not leaking, push the pistons in as far as they will go and clamp them, then loosen the feed pipe so it bleeds from there under pressure.
Alternatively if it leaks, Take the cylinder off and using the hole as a center drill it out with a 4mm
then a 6mm if the screw is an 8mil or an old 5/16ths. What's left can be easily cleared then and re tapped blown out and a new one fitted.
The only drawback to this advice is that few people have sets of taps and dies these days

[mat_the_cat]

The knackered screw on the cylinder I just replaced the cylinder - £12 so not the end of the world. Could only loosen the bottom screw on both front calipers so on the first I hammered a Torx bit in which promptly snapped leaving something too hard to easily drill. The second I drilled out and retapped (bloody M7 thread!) but I hadn't realised the existing hole was at a slight angle. I'd taken great care to drill straight but in doing so had fucked up the existing thread and meant the new bleed screw no longer sealed on the seat.

Getting a bit sick of it now so two new calipers on their way tomorrow

[Philhod]

Ah err yes I should have mentioned that. I have a bench drill which allows me to set it up at the slight angle.
Thats why I use the ctr hole as a guide with a 3mm drill first.
The hole is just under 2 so drills easily and centers you at the right angle

[Philhod]

Failed MOT last week. 1 track rod end, leak on fuel filtre and a hole in exhaust as pipe enters cat.
Fixed the first 2 with a new one but the front pipe with cat is rather expensive.
The good news is that the pipe and cat body are nearly 3 mm thick and only the weld had gone holy (but not godly)
So I just welded a stainless sleeve over the welds front and rear and all was good and I now have a shiny new cert.
Well one of those cheap papery things anyway