BXProject

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 22 Apr 2008

Am I missing something here?

Handbrake adjustment is the last job before MOT Re-test. Currently the pull is 14 clicks and it's not being taken up on the auto adjusters.

So trying to adjust a cable that has not been re-adjusted before initial fitting back a bit, according to Haynes BOL. Can undo locknut, can unscrew what Haynes say is the adjusting nut but can't screw it up to pull the cable back.

Have used penetrating oil but so called adjusting nut just acts as a locknut on both calipers.

What is the proper procedure?

Philhod · Post by **Philhod** » 22 Apr 2008

I`ll have to go and have a look at mine....but

Take out the ctr console near the handbrake lever and you will see a "toggle" going across at 90 degrees to the brake lever. The cable ends attach to this.
Make sure the cables run through all the circular guides.under the car.
Adjust the cables at the wheel end until the slack is taken up.... making sure that the toggle at the lever end stays relativley square to the lever.
that`s why you have to adjust both sides at the same time.
The nut is a lock nut..the caliper casting is tapped and the cable outer is screwed through it when fitted...so it`s the threaded bit that you adjust, locking it with the nut when the tension is correct.

If rust has taken over and you cannot turn the threaded outer sleeve, you will have to soak with easing oil for a few days then get serious with some stillies or something equally brutal.

Finally remove the spring clip and then the rubber bellows covering the auto adjust system...make sure inside is free and is covered in grease. If it is it should be working

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 23 Apr 2008

Thanks Phil, my comments/questions in red.

[quote="Philhod"]

I`ll have to go and have a look at mine....but

Take out the ctr console near the handbrake lever and you will see a "toggle" going across at 90 degrees to the brake lever. The cable ends attach to this.
Make sure the cables run through all the circular guides.under the car.
Don't need to do this as its an existing cable being adjusted.
Adjust the cables at the wheel end until the slack is taken up.... making sure that the toggle at the lever end stays relativley square to the lever.
that`s why you have to adjust both sides at the same time.Toggle was square to start with, can see this through aperture without removing centre console
The nut is a lock nut..the caliper casting is tapped and the cable outer is screwed through it when fitted...so it`s the threaded bit that you adjust, locking it with the nut when the tension is correct. There are 2 nuts, a lock nut and a larger adjusting nut both of which I've freed but I thought the screwed part pulled out of the caliper casting and wasnt screwed into it. I cant see that the screwed part can rotate on the cable but correct me if I am wrong. I have doused it in penetrating oil 3 times now. The so called adjusting nut (Haynes) will not so far pull the screww out of the casting and neither does it go further in when the adjusting screw is wound back.

If rust has taken over and you cannot turn the threaded outer sleeve, you will have to soak with easing oil for a few days then get serious with some stillies or something equally brutal. Still need clarification as to whether the screw thread is tapped into the casting or if its a clearance hole that is clagged with this brake dust turned cement first before brutalising.

Finally remove the spring clip and then the rubber bellows covering the auto adjust system...make sure inside is free and is covered in grease. If it is it should be working

I haven't opened this unit.

Bloody "quick" jobs always seem to turn out this way.

Post by **Vanny** » 23 Apr 2008

post me a picture of your caliper/handbrake cable!

This is an easy job, and a man of your caliber should have no problems, i cant pick up on anythign wrong in what your saying so i wonder if you have a greater fault!

Also, age of the cables? They can stretch so you may not have any more adjust ment! Personally though i find the wheel always cuts through the casing before they fatigue and fail!

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 23 Apr 2008

Vanny wrote:post me a picture of your caliper/handbrake cable!

I've just been out to the car to take pictures & will post in a mo. Bloody neighbours will think I'm mad taking pictures at this hour.

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 23 Apr 2008

Wow, thats dedication!
My neighbours are shagging at the mo, bloody modern build houses....

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 23 Apr 2008

Here you go, all cases. The pictures are quite dark but should show what you want to identify on the mechanism.

You can also see the adjusting nut has been loosened a couple of threads but the threaded bit is not being pulled in under the spring pressure

Set at 4 clicks with 10 more to pull closed (Offside)

Set at 4 clicks with 10 more to pull closed (Nearside)

Fully closed 14 clicks (Offside)

Fully closed 14 clicks (Nearside)

Fully closed 14 clicks (Offside)

Fully Open from 14 Clicks (Offside)

Fully Open from 14 Clicks (Nearside)

Post by **Vanny** » 23 Apr 2008

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

you fucking idiot, the nuts are on the WRONG SIDE of the arm!!!!! you have NO adjustment because you have nothing to adjust against!

Take the hand brake off, and pull the cable out of the calipers arm (i find using a screw driver to push the arm back is the easiest bit), then pull the cable out of the guide hole (its straight not threaded). Remove the nuts. puch the cable back in the whole, put the large nut on then the little nut, then reconnect to the arm on the caliper. Now you can adjust the fuckers!

thats hillarious.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 23 Apr 2008

Vanny wrote:ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

you fucking idiot, the nuts are on the WRONG SIDE of the arm!!!!! you have NO adjustment because you have nothing to adjust against!

Take the hand brake off, and pull the cable out of the calipers arm (i find using a screw driver to push the arm back is the easiest bit), then pull the cable out of the guide hole (its straight not threaded). Remove the nuts. puch the cable back in the whole, put the large nut on then the little nut, then reconnect to the arm on the caliper. Now you can adjust the fuckers!

thats hillarious.

Are you having a funny turn ???

That bit of advice goes against everything I've ever seen or heard.

The nuts are on the the right side of the housing according to Haynes and it's logical they should be that side because you take up slack in the cable by the nut drawing it out of the housing. Your suggestion would be lengthening the cable and I don't even think the ferrule would pass through the casting because there will be a shoulder in the hole for the ferrule to bear against.

I've come to the conclusion that the screw ferrule on both sides is just held in by crud so I'm still applying the penetrating oil still. After all even to replace the cable if it comes to that, this ferrule still has to be got out of this hole!

Post by **Vanny** » 23 Apr 2008

you could be right, but quite honeslty they aint rocket science.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 23 Apr 2008

Done It! Bloody Hell that was hard!

Nutted it, shook it with mole grips, levered it, tapped it with a hammer, Penetrating Oiled it many times, levered it, shook it, wd40'd it a few times, nutted it a few times more in between more fluid application and FINALLY after literally several hours they started to pull under the extreme nut pressure out of the casting.
Have adjusted it but now at least later when the cables need to be replaced they can be removed from the casting as even replacement wasn't an option previously with the old ferrules resisting all force.

I'll have to see what the MOT man says tomorrow!

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 24 Apr 2008

Vanny wrote:ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

you fucking idiot, the nuts are on the WRONG SIDE of the arm!!!!! you have NO adjustment because you have nothing to adjust against!

Take the hand brake off, and pull the cable out of the calipers arm (i find using a screw driver to push the arm back is the easiest bit), then pull the cable out of the guide hole (its straight not threaded). Remove the nuts. puch the cable back in the whole, put the large nut on then the little nut, then reconnect to the arm on the caliper. Now you can adjust the fuckers!

thats hillarious.

Vannys on drugs!

Well done W2G, ignore my PM, I'm a bit late!

Post by **Vanny** » 24 Apr 2008

its called tourine, 5 mugs of the stuff that day, and i'm already on my first today

mnde · Post by **mnde** » 24 Apr 2008

Vanny wrote:its called urine, 5 mugs of the stuff that day, and i'm already on my first today

That was just asking for it.

Sorry.

Mark.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 24 Apr 2008

Back OT............

Yippee!

MOT man said YES and gave me the green one with no advisories!

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 24 Apr 2008

well done

Philhod · Post by **Philhod** » 24 Apr 2008

You`re right of course, it isn`t` threaded......went an ad a look last night but couldn`t get back on here