BXProject

so i might now get to do something about the trailer. WHOOP


Current plan is to build a big aframe into the current chassis rails (about 2" or 2x3" box section) that comes out and forward for the hitch to mount on.

Then replace much of the floor cos its rotten and generally doesn't need to be the shapes it currently is!


First question, what grade and guage steel do i need? Bear in mind these will be full size sheets at trade prices or less!

Yeah right,.well,.... call me oldfashioned but I would use 2mm for the floor and 1.5 for the sides and 40 x75 x 2mm box. You can cut some of the 2mm into strips 60 wide and bend it into mini angle iron to stiffen uo the floor and sides.
I usually use a complete backaxle with leaf springs if poss, from some ancient donor that`s wide enuff. Bolt a piece of sheet over the open diff to keep the oil in.

Oh and make a fukin drawing first so you know how much stuff you want

I`ll tell you what forget most of that shit. I`ve just realised you are using
big lumps of BX

okay so if i'm using big lumps of BX what guage do i want? 2mm sounds obscene!


And rear axle, C15 rear is a direct bolt on (apparently) and there are plenty of them in scrappies round here!

What guage weld wire as well? and is it worth me borrowing a BIG bottle (and driving round with it in my mums AX again )

C15 axle is directley interchangable so no worries there.

For the floor I agree with Phil on 2mm, plenty of strentgh, and less prone to distortion if seam welding.
For the plate to cover the big hole in the front, Depends really if you're going to strentghen it or have a large flat piece of steel.

I'd probably run with 18 gauge, or maybe even 20 guage for that TBH.

Unless you are infact making a BX from scratch a little bottle of gas should do the job just fine.
As for the wire, whatever you can get cheapest!

Heh Heh. I can`t remember the wire guage thicknesses now, but 1 or 1.2 mm should be ok. Wire .8 is good but .6 would be even better. less distortion.
I`ve no idea what you have in your head for a shape but remember the front will present a umungous air dam unsess you streamline it. It can mean up to 20 mpg better or worse depending on your final shape

Stick with MS sheet. zintec is rustfree but a bugger to weld

i was considering zintec! Wire is free, think i have a pretty much full real of .8 at the mo, but will source .6

air flow, hmmm, i have a lecturer who is pretty much THE expert on aerodynamics, used to be contracted to Williams, now to whom ever pays the most, and i agree with him, upto 70mph aero dynamics mean shit! That and its being pulled behind a BX, hardly known for aero dynamic profile. It does make me thing though!

leading edge will need to have a large flat section, i have a window from a caravan to go in

That`s cool....glass we can incorporate

I had a mate who drove pidgeons to their release point, in what was a trailer in the form of a big wooden box (with pidgeon holes) He pulled with an Escort 1600 petrol. His main speeds were between 40 and 75. Before I fitted a chisel point fairing to the leading face, he was getting
21 mpg....after 34. So while I agree with your professor that it doesn`t make much difference handling wise. For fuel economy the facts speak for themselves. This is also borne out in the relative economy and indeed performance of a transit against a transit luton.

How do you fancy having the front panel ,with glass, at the same angle as the BX screen as a starting point, with the lower front you could use a front bumper with the main tow beam coming through the lower air intake
Just remembered Zintec doesn`t take paint very well unless you use an etching primer, although hammerite seems to stick to it