BXProject

[Philhod]

As some of you may know I started to dismantle the HDI 20 engine last Sun as the cylinder head gasket appears to have failed.

Quotes for the job from various Cit garages ranged from 9 to 12 Hundred pounds *********

Naturally this has now become a DIY job.

All printed info states clearly as per Haynes This job is impossible with the engine in the car therefore all info is based on engine removed!!!!!!

Well it is possible.....Just. having spent 3 hours sun and 6 yesterday I am about to commence day 3 with the final bolt from the exhaust manifold, you can reach these with 2 engine mounts released and the motor tipped right forward, with one person holding the socket on and another turning the ratshit from above. It's been much the same all along really as you have to dismantle most of the equipment at the rear of the engine, pulling long lengths of pipework out with much ingenuity and a lot of swearing.
OK I'm off back into the fray now. more tomorrow.

[docchevron132]

It's easier (a bit) if the cars on a ramp and you can attack the back end from beneath, although access is still a bit shit TBH..

[Philhod]

All off now. Well we left the inlet manifold on, then lifted out the exhaust manifold and turbo out after the head was off. We will probably put the ex manifold and turbo on to the head. finger tight when re assembling.


All new parts ordered from Rigbye's after lunch, will pick them up Thurs lunch will give it a full service (and mine), while we're at it.

Got mine on the computer while we were there. Most of my ill's (ok annoyances) are down to faulty brake and clutch sensors. Any way he said stick them on and take it for a recheck next week.

I've been offered 20 litres of Chevron diesel / turbo, specific motor oil. The AP codes are correct but has anyone used it, because it's being offered at £1 per litre, which seems rather cheap to me

It was very satisfying to see the soot free clean bit, on no4 exhaust manifold exit, where the water had been going to. the piston crown was also dirty with the other 3 being relatively clean for 110000

[docchevron132]

It always seems to be No. 4 that goes on HDi's, duno why...

Never used Chevron diesel oil, so fuck knows mate! But if it meets the specs, cant be bad at that price!

[Philhod]

Numbers 4 eh! I wasn't aware of that,
but I've ordered a size thicker head gasket(also recommended by Andrew at Rigbye's), as I don't fancy this job again for a while!!!
Must be getting old but it's a bit since I did a job as err..involved as this and I had aches and pains everywhere on Monday.(easing off a bit now)
Obviously not as fit as I thought I was
Cam belt looks an ok fit but that auxilliary belt is something else!!
Why does everything on this motor remind me of working on a waggon engine. It's all built like a brick shithouse.

[Vanny]

Used Chevron in the AX for the last 5 years, no problems, doesn't mean much mind. I buy based on the SIP? spec on the back and that guarantees a minimum quality, Chevron meets the same as most of the magical oils (magnatec etc) and they do a special version for old diesel engines. I usually pay £1 a litre or less, so its not a steal unless prices have shot up recently??

[Philhod]

Thanks Vanny, I'll x his palm with £1 / litre and confiscate my 20 litres then.

Don't know if you caught it before but I had mine on the computer and it is a dodgy brake/ clutch switch/ sensory thingy that is at the centre of most of my electrical glitches.

They charged me £30, I fit the new bitz, then take it back next week to check and have the system cleared, but there is no charge for that. fairly pain free then......unlike this fucking head gasket

[Vanny]

i did catch it, and i'll not pass judgement until its been in for a reset and back on the road for a week!

[Philhod]

Completed the Picasso's last evening except for my clutch sesnsor, so no results yet Vanny

However Derek has just rung to say that diesel is coming out of the top of the fuel filtre, so I'd better get down there to see what he's done.
He was fitting all the fuel pipes back when I left last night.

I'll bet he's put 2 feeds to it rather than a feed and return.....I hope so anyway


No he hadn't, he just put the top seal in the wrong place Anyway all up and running again. It's developed a noisy tappet (which we havn't touched) but with new oil and filters in (hydraulic ones) I hope it will clear it's self

[docchevron132]

Ahh, yeah, it should shut up eventually.
We usually "burp" them if we take a HDi head down..

[Philhod]

Yeah, we didn't bother disturbing them and it cleared up while we were venting the coolant.

He's had it down the M6 to Warrington and back through the countryside. Kept it to 80 on the M/way and 20/40 back through the villages. Everything is sound.
You should have seen the shit in the inlet tract, some of it was 1/2" thick. It's caused by the oil mist coming from the top of the cam cover, coz it's clean from the turbo up to the elbow on the
inlet chamber. Should breathe a lot better now thanks to gunk

Don't know wether it's worth it but there is room (believe it or not) at the top right, to manufacture a small intercooler. I'm told, but sceptical, that it only has 92 horses because it don't have one.

[docchevron132]

It's not just the ointercooler that makes the HP difference, the mapping is different too.
But IC's are always FTW really.

[Philhod]

Well yeah, that as well.
But looking at the maths you can actually use less fuel, on boost, coz for every 10 degrees you drop the intake air, you increase the oxygen by 10 % and with a leaner mixture you get the extra push from the increased oxygen.
I got these figures off the net but they dont look right to me.....think I'll go back in and do some more research

[Way2go]

Well yeah, that as well.
But looking at the maths you can actually use less fuel, on boost, coz for every 10 degrees you drop the intake air, you increase the oxygen by 10 % and with a leaner mixture you get the extra push from the increased oxygen.
I got these figures off the net but they dont look right to me.....think I'll go back in and do some more research

Not sure about the validity of these figures either.

IIRC the basis of the advantage is that cooler air has more potential for expansion than hotter air and therefore gives a bigger push on the power stroke.

This quest for additional expansion led to the now forgotten idea of water injected carburetters on petrol engines as on combustion the water turned to steam & gas giving even greater expansion potential than the air alone.

[Philhod]

No it's actually a lot simpler than that. The principle is that cold air has a greater mass than warm/hot air, therefore you compress a greater amount of air/oxygen given the same volume.
That's how chipped and i/c motors can use less fuel.

[Way2go]

Um, unless I'm mistaken you've just said the same thing as me in a roundabout way. It has more potential for expansion because of being able to induct a denser air/oxygen mixture by virtue of it being at a colder temperature.

[Philhod]

Yes you are correct young man

Theroretically:- V100 - Vo = KVo

Which is an ( approximate )equasion of Charles law...At constant pressure, the volume of a gas
increases or decreases, proportionate, or by the same factor, to increases or decreases in temperature.

As the pressure is not constant, (ok the cycle is), Mass or substance comes into play, adding additional push from a hotter burn with more oxy in it, ergo, more power less fuel.

Alledgedly

Which actually proves those figures wern't far off decreasing 10 degrees will give a 10% increase in power.

[docchevron132]

Yeah, but sticking white tape in lines along the side of the car will give it an extra 50 on the floor man!

[Philhod]

Fuck the I/C then. I....err...just buy some tape and put 3 stripes down each side then.

What colour should it be? How wide should it be? Will 3 be faster? Come on man, I need answers

[docchevron132]

Best results achieved by using two lines each side about 3" thick, white is always the best option.
Less frictional drag ya know!