BXProject

[jonathan_dyane]

Got something of an issue.

In the 1000 or so miles since I replaced the engine in my BX (TD) it has used barely a drop of oil and no water.

The new (to me) engine has my old pump on it, on which I had considerably backed off the boost compensator on the IP, in order to try and prolong the death throes of the HG on the previous engine. On Monday, getting sick of the flat performance, I began increasing the fuelling, incrementally, until I reached normal BX TD levels of performance. I have not gone mad with this, and I think it's pretty close to how it should be.

After the last adjustment, I gave the thing a bit of hokey cokey to see if it seemed to be performing satisfactorily, then returned home. Later returning to the car I noted a wet patch beneath the expansion tank, and found that the expansion tank was now empty; the car had obviously blown the missing coolant out of the vent.

I immediately had HG paranoia, however on refilling the tank, I started the car (engine cold) and noted there did not seem to be any excessive pressurisation, and there are no bubbles to be seen whatsoever (I did discover a slight misfire when revving the engine however, but I think this is injector related). With regards to temperature, this engine runs dead on between 60 and 90 on the gauge normally, moving up to almost 90 when ragging it. In heavy traffic the highest reading I have noticed is ITRO 92.

Now, I am wondering if my problem could be a silted up radiator, which now the fuelling is at a normal level is making itself known. I do intent to clean the radiator (white vinegar and bicarb method) next week, but thought I would bounce the problem of others beforehand. The thing is, the car never overheats, and the radiator has no cold spots, but I'm wondering that if flow through the radiator is restricted (and when the I bought the car it was filled with dirty water instead of anti-freeze so this is entirely plausable) it could blow the water out. Or am I in HG denial...

[jayw]

If it's of anyuse, my old Pug 405d used to idle cold for hours with no problem and drive fine but everytime i parked up and switched off she spewed her guts. Let her cool, fill her up again and i could drive 200 miles problem free, park her up and she did it all over again.

Unfortunately, a new HG sorted the problem but never did know why as there was no evidence with the head off.

[jonathan_dyane]

I fear you're right about this Jay, the more I think about it, the more I think HG. I'm sure if the radiator was sufficiently blocked to cause such a problem, it would have cold spots and running temperatures would be elevated. I think the engine out of my 306 could well be getting thrown in...

With regard to that (fitting a Peugeot engine that had a vacuum pump) could anyone who's been there before give me some advance information on the nature of the oil feed that needs blocking up? Is it a circular hole that can be tapped and a stud with a flat cut in it loctited in place or similar?

[jayw]

I fear you're right about this Jay, the more I think about it, the more I think HG. I'm sure if the radiator was sufficiently blocked to cause such a problem, it would have cold spots and running temperatures would be elevated.

Most cases of blocked radiators i've seen have left the car ticking over fine and running round town fine, they tend to cause overheating on the open road, the faster you go, the hotter it gets.

My friends Colt had a blocked rad that didn't show cold-spots and would hold it's temperature until you went over 50mph, then it rocketed. New rad solved that one.

[Fish_Botherer]

I can remember suffering post-HG paranioa on a 19TGD where an excellent head gasket job was done by a 16v-owning garage owner in Swansea. I know this is a non-expansion-tank model but I'll mention it in any case.

I was paranoid about fluid loss/levels after taking the car for an extended motorway return journey shortly after the replacement. Yes, it had dumped out some coolant. Yes, the level was down. Yes, it was refilled at that point and thoroughly re-bled.

More importantly, the advice I was given at that point was along the lines of "it'll find its level if you don't keep fart-arsing with it - once anything remaining in the way of minor airlock has been bled through, and any excess coolant ejected by the system, which is probably what was happening".

I did a further 45k on that engine with no problems whatsoever. I'd say you're possibly at the same stage - unless it keeps blowing like Moby Dick (a new tank-cap and clean-up around the header tank top probably wouldn't wouldnt go amiss). If it geysers on start-up without the tank-cap, or continues to regularly dump coolant after a run then I'd think differently.

[Philhod]

How's the thermostat????? Tis will cause similar problems.

Either way, a leakdown test at your trusted garage will tell for sure.

On the other thread I just mentioned this before.The Picasso was pressuring back but also losing water, (albeit not much and not visible anywhere) Leakdown test showed leak into cylinder.
New HG fitted and we are just putting all the bits back now.

Might mention BX HG took Sat/ Sun. We started the Picasso last Sunday, put about 24 hours in this week and it still has about 6 more hours work which will include new timing belt and a service.
All info tells you to take the lump out to do it but we know better
Rigbye's do it our way too, but at £750 for labour, we decided

[jayw]

Having only run 1 PSA diesel i'd have thought 90-92 degrees a litlle hot seeing as diesels generally run cooler anyway? Any thoughts to an inefficient/knackered water pump?

[jonathan_dyane]

Well, I'm pleased to report it seems that I was somewhat premature; yesterday I did what I should have done straight away, and got the car up to temperature, and then looked for escaping coolant. Didn't take long to spot a stream of coolant escaping to the ground beneath the expansion tank, however moving under the bonnet I noted that there did not seem to be anything escaping from the vent.

Conducted further investigation, and discovered coolant leaking from a hose beneath the expansion tank whose jubilee clip I had clearly failed to fully tighten

Tightened clip, and topped up coolant, and then travelled 220 miles at high speeds with no problems.

Thanks for all the advice, and sorry for wastage of time...

[Way2go]

Alls well that ends well!

[Fish_Botherer]

There's paranoia pure and simple, and than there's head gasket paranoia. Give me plain vanilla paranoia any day....

[docchevron132]

Vanilla... well, depends in which context really!

Just sometimes I like to go made with the walnut whip..
and of course, you CANNOT have pie without cool Hwhip!

[Philhod]

All depends on what sort of pie we are talking here

[Vanny]

stake and ale. Actually its a known fact that the continuing decline in steak and ale pie quality was the cause of the recession, and nothing what so ever to do with the Stig opening a bank account with Northern Rock

[Philhod]

I was thinking more, Pooles meat and spud! mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Or the wife's homemade. Even more MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM's

[mat_the_cat]

With regard to that (fitting a Peugeot engine that had a vacuum pump) could anyone who's been there before give me some advance information on the nature of the oil feed that needs blocking up? Is it a circular hole that can be tapped and a stud with a flat cut in it loctited in place or similar?

It's a bit late now, and apologies for bringing this thread back on track but it is a circular hole on the ones I've seen, so I don't see any reason why your idea wouldn't work. But good to hear you don't have to do the swap.

Apparently it's a lot more difficult going the other way, David R told me that the oilway is blanked off with a ball bearing peened into the hole. Bit of a bugger to drill out I would imagine...

[Philhod]

Flat btm drill or reamer to take out the peening . Remove ball brg, then proceed as suggested.

If you are really concerned it may come adrift use a grub type screw and re peen edges.
Or, on the other hand, if you are going the other way, drill and tap, thread a piece of suitable tube, screw that in and rubber pipe it from there.

[docchevron132]

Unless it's a late head, or a stupidly early one then the hole is present in all heads and is a tapped threaded thing.
Tis only a brass grub screw thing that fills them.
I have several in stock..

[Philhod]

Do they have a ledge at the btm or are they straight tho'. If straight thro' it's a good move to knacker the 2 btm threads with a small chisel, 180 apart, (if they are not tapered) to stop it vibrating inwards.

[docchevron132]

There is indeed a ledge.