BXProject

[Vanny]

Potentially there are few that know the answers to these questions, but i'm hoping quite a few will have input.

I hate the BX linkages! They really are shite. So my intention is to make up some rose jointed bars and bolt them in.

1) I want to use stainless bars, am i better buying solid bars or tubes? I think i will probably tap them out myself if i can get a left handed thread (see 2). Where is best to get bar and taps?
2) My back ground says i should have opposed threads so that i can change the lengths in situ, are there any serious benefits?
3) What sort of thread do i need? I assume i would be better off with a UNF fine thread? more rotations for shortening etc on that note any advice for thickness? I'm thinking M6 or M8? I guess the required strength is low, but M8 will be easier to tap for an amateur?
4) Attaching to the current linkages, i think most of the existing balls can simply be drilled out, but i remember that one of the links gearbox side is a ball ended rod. How in gods name can i attach to that?
5) Can i simply drill a hole in the flat plates and bolt the rose joint down? Would it be better to weld the nut captive to the plate? Do i need to bother with a spacer top and bottom to increase the rotation of the rose joint?

[Philhod]

Pics or a drg please Vanny. But......stainless tube but but get cooking standard 18/8 or 18/9. The chrome based will be too hard. 8 mill inside is about right but you need thick wall.
Dont bother with threading the ends L & R, Make the ends fixed and put in a RH central adjuster with lock nut. M8 x 1. ISO fine is ideal.
They make "rose" type joints that are big enuff to push over ball ends, they have a clip (like a C clip with square corners) that you pull out then push home after it's gone over the ball. You need to use a screwdriver to pull it out again.

If you want the ultimate light smooth change, Titanium's the way to go.

It welds very well, it files and tap's ok but you can't grind it. Lighter than Aly and 30 times stronger than steel, why you could go down to M6

[Bx Bandit]

To tell you the truth mate I have no idea what you're on about. Are you talking steering linkages here?

[mat_the_cat]

If you want the ultimate light smooth change, Titanium's the way to go.

It welds very well, it files and tap's ok but you can't grind it. Lighter than Aly and 30 times stronger than steel

It's actually more dense than aluminium, but generally quite a bit stronger so you can get away with less actual material. Not sure about the 30 times stronger than steel bit, if I remember rightly then 6Al-4V titanium is only about twice as strong as mild steel. Doesn't rust away though, and gets extra bonus points for sounding cool!

Sorry I'm absolutely no help at all to you Vanny...

[docchevron132]

Erm, why?
Whats wrong with the standard get up?

[Vanny]

Sorry i realise i missed out a crucial bit, gear change linkages. Will get piccies when i get home.

[Philhod]

The 63-4r stuff we used was in fact over 30 times stronger that steel in compression, tension and shear.

If you take say a 10mm round bar a couple of feet long, of each Ms and tit, the ms will bend easily if you put your knee in the middle and pull. Try that with titanium and all you'll get is a bruise on yer knee.

Remember who it's named after

[Bx Bandit]

Mr Titanium?

[Philhod]

The Titans I'm

[docchevron132]

Mr Titanium?

Nice bloke so he was...

[Bx Bandit]

Are you sure it's worth the effort mate? I'm not sure you'll end up with anything better tbh. Are you talking about the two little linky rods?

[Vanny]

bandit you need to try driving a car with a nice accurate gear control. The BX from new feels a little flappy, fine if you have the time to hang around while the give and flex bothers to catch up and make the change. Personally i want to change the gear and get on with it pretty quickly and a good positive change is lurvely.

I think it is well worth the effort, the cost will be between naff and fuck all really. I can get the rose joints free, so its only the cost of the bar that is a problem and i should be able to get that at trade price. I'm thinking i will just go for two RH thread joints, stick em in a drilled tapped solid bar, possibly alloy, and bolt em down, if do it the easy way.

I'm intrigued by the over ball joint though Phil, not had much luck finding them, though i've not hit the SKF site yet.

[Philhod]

I'll have a looksee on some of my old gear lying about. Might find a manufacturers name.

Still not sure why you want adjustment at both ends????

You can get high silicon/ manganese mild steel in Hexagonal section (10mmAF?) Spec number 19, eyebolt steel.
It's soft to work with but quite tough. Shackles/pins, hooks and eyebolts and probably rose joints are made from it.

[docchevron132]

I'm guessing he wants counter tapped adjustment so the length can be altered without disturbing the joints themsleves?

Personally I've never had a problem with the standard set up. If all the joints are new it's plenty slick enough for me.
Chopping some length out of the quadrant selector makes the throw of the stick shorter and therefore a tad faster...

[Philhod]

'm guessing he wants counter tapped adjustment so the length can be altered without disturbing the joints themsleves?

Well that happens with a single adjuster and locknut, positioned anywhere along it's length where access is easiest???????

Wouldn't you have to make a new quadrant plate???

[Vanny]

Well you have to screw the rod end into\onto something at each end so i see no reason why not to have adjustment from the ends. Surely by having a third adjustment point in the middle your just making life harder? I was thinking of having opposing threads then you can adjust on the fly, but its gear linkages not suspension so there really isnt any point in buying a left hand tap.

If i'm bolting down then there is no reason to cut a section out of the control arm, just put the bolt in a little closer to the pivot?

Why would a new pivot plate be needed?

[Philhod]

personally I would have welded the ends on and put an adjuster along the length. that would also be the advantage of using tube.

Oh I see yeah you can just drill another hole

[Vanny]

My understanding is that the existing ball is welded/brazed into a hole in the plate so can simply be drilled and hammered out, easy days. I have a set of spare linkages and pivot plate for the purpose so can to some extent modify off the car.

I'm slowly finding more info on locking ball connecting track rods, that would be ideal

[Bx Bandit]

bandit you need to try driving a car with a nice accurate gear control.

You're probably right mate - but you're talking to a bloke who's gone from the sloppy whoreness of a Morris Minor to a respectful virgin like tightness of a BX!

Be good to see what you do though mate - keep us posted...

[Vanny]

i'll get there, somewhat brassic at the moment so might be a while before i buy the bits, need to make a garage door and side passage door first.