BXProject

Hi all, looking for abit of info regarding my leaky front height corrector. Basically it's leaking from the bottom of the diaphragm. It would appear that it's dust cover is missing too. Has anybody had experience in changing seals on these and how much of a job is it. Any knowledge on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
Bx 19tgd auto

The seals on the end caps can leak on these or the rubber cap on the little elbow union can be missing.
However leaks on these are usually due to pressure building because of dirt restricting the flow of LHM across the unit.
They can be taken apart (very carefully) as the discs inside are very thin and easily damaged.
You need special tools but as with a lot of cit tools they can easily be made. I use an 8 mil bolt ground down a bit and a saw cut in the end to remove the brass plug once out you can remove all the discs, I use a piece of thin wood dowel made just a push fit into the hole and slide them out.
Everything washed in petrol and blow dried then re assembled. The seals can be sourced from one of those companies that make up hydraulic pipework for industrial and M/V use.
As far as I can remember, according to the manual you have to them refilled under pressure, but I've just stuck lhm in before sealing them and they have always bled through ??!!
Anyway it's about 8 years since I did a couple and I'm old so I cold be wrong about the last bit.
No doubt some kind soul on here will set me right.

/\ what he said, and I've never "bled" them, just filled the fucker with LHM through the ports and stuffed it on.
That said, if you want a slightly softer ride, leave a couple of the discs out when reassembling, makes a hell of a difference, alternatively, plaiedes sell reocn units for not too much outlay.

Welcome along by the way!

Cheers folks, got this weekend off so axle stands out, and see if I can cure it. Sick of looking at my money spilt on the floor- drip tray.. thanks for welcome doc

my 16V has been dripping green blood fromt he flow valve for a couple of years, cant quite be arsed to do anything about it, but yeah, LHM isn't cheap anymore...
Best of luck mate! And enjoy the dark side!

Yeah. I remember reading they had to pressure filled and thought fuck that and just filled them and connected back up. the whole system (apart from brakes) self bleeds as it goes.

I never knew you could adjust the ride like that Doc

it effectively takes some of the damping action out of the HC, making the ride softer without impairing the handling, it's a neat little trick, but dont take more than 2 discs out or the fucker will ground out over the slightest pothole, as I found with the TD....

Yeah makes sense that, less restriction to the flow.....poor TD.

Just goes against years of making sure you aint got any bitz left when it's all back together.

true, to be fair, I think the TD would have been fine, had I not also fitted CX Comfort spheres. Seemed like a good idea at the time, it wasn't.

Funny you wern't seasick

it's still got them! They've lost some pressure over the years, so it's less bouncy than it was, but still a bit OTT. I'll be fitting valver spheres and roll bars come the rebuild. The irony is, when it's got only me in it, and nothign in the boot, the ride is pretty harsh, which I suspect is to do with the CX being a heavier car.. that said, 5 up and a boot full of shit the ride is pretty magic carpet..

Yeah. They reckon the BBC camera CX at horse racing, has had loads of stuff stuck in the boot as the weight of the cameras used has got lighter and lighter.

Hi all, we'll problem solved. Managed to find a new complete original unit on eBay to save on a bit of time. It was the diaphragm that had perished so at least I have a spare when I decide to buy a seal kit.
Now I'm going to dive in and change the cam belt when this sodding weather warms up abit, problem is with it being a auto the Haynes manual is telling me I need to unbolt the transmission cover and lock the starter ring gear in order for me to unbolt the drive pulley from the crankshaft. Where the hell is the transmission cover.

If anybody has experience on this and any tips it would be a great help
Cheers folks


Bx 19 tgd auto

Did you get the one that was up for £100 buy it now or best offer? I got them down to £75 but that was still too dear for me so had to leave it - I have two in need of refurb so bought a couple of seal kits from this place:

http://shop.citroenclassics.co.uk/heigh ... -253-p.asp

No chap, that one is still on there. Looking at that one it doesn't look original, although I suppose it's going to do the same job. I found one for £55 on the bay, it came from a citroen dealer in Shrewsbury who are currently clearing old stock out, quite lucky really. Citroen classics in stains do the kit for £20, so I thought for an extra £35.. May aswell get the lot.. Clean the old one up and there's a spare.

When doing the cam belt I just lock it all up at the top with some 8mm bolts.
Never done an auto but I imagine there is a hole in the flexplate to line up the TDC.

The HDI has a removable plate at the btm of the clutch housing so you can bolt a locking tool (home made again) in place

By the way K39 is a TXD not a TGD.

Thanks for that mate, hopping for the weather to cheer up then I shall crack on.
Thanks for the correction on the Nissan Lycra too, updated.. I got abit carried away with the signature

nope. On the diesel auto there is a hole in the flexi plate to lock the crank, there is no such hole on the petrol since the crank is locked at the cam belt end.
If you look at the bellhousing there is a plastic cover near where the starter is bolted to it. Remove said plastic cover (just levers out) and jam a pry bar or hefty screwdriver against the ring gear.
The tensioner is a fucking ballache on those too.. but thats for another day maybe!
Good luck.

Thanks for the info doc, I'm thinking its probably a wise idea to change the tensioners and the water pump while the belt is off, for what they cost it would be rude not to. But since you say the tensioner is a twat, now I'm thinking the other way

worth doing anyway, it's purely the tensioner is a fiddly fucking slide afair that is a bit of a faff to do, is ok if you have strong hands to hold the spring back! Still better than trashing an engine though.