the car has never put a wheel wrong since I have had it ,
went to go out after lunch and she started fine as usual,
then the low water and stop light came on so switched off straight away , topped up water ,
car wouldent start at first but after a while fired up , drove about 100 yards and died aftre a big back fire,
got it back home and left it for a while thinking it might have flooded
left it for an hour then went out to it ,
it started straight away then just as it had raised up and settled it died .
its cranking over fine it just wont fire .
any ideas
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mickey taker
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mickey taker
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update ,
just remembered the car wouldent start after topping the water up with a watering can so water went everywhere
just been out to it again and car started perfectly,
took it around the big roundabout outside my house twice and it died when I put it in reverse to put it on the drive.
restarted after a bit and ran fine , took the expansion cap off the tank and water overflowed from it and the car died again instantly , could water going over something electrical be causing the problems ?
just remembered the car wouldent start after topping the water up with a watering can so water went everywhere
just been out to it again and car started perfectly,
took it around the big roundabout outside my house twice and it died when I put it in reverse to put it on the drive.
restarted after a bit and ran fine , took the expansion cap off the tank and water overflowed from it and the car died again instantly , could water going over something electrical be causing the problems ?
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mickey taker
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docchevron132
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The oil pressure gauge always raises a bit when you tuen the lights on, thats common.
It could be any number of things, but if it ran ok untill you splashed some water over things I'd unplug, clean and refit the connectors to the ign amp, the idle actuator, the throttle switch and the injector plugs.
Also, remove and clean up the earth leads for the injectors (two ten mm bolts that also hold the fuel rail down).
Whats more worrying is the fact the low water and temp light came on, and when you topped it up and removed the filler cap it threw water out.
Either you have a leak, in which case it needs sorting before the car is used again, or the head gasket has blown. Which is a bit of a job to do on one of these cars!
Start by cleaning all the pligs up, run it up with the expansion tank cap off, look for bubbles in the coolant. If it starts throwing water out before the fans come in, either you have a massive air lock in the system, or the HG is FUBAR....
It could be any number of things, but if it ran ok untill you splashed some water over things I'd unplug, clean and refit the connectors to the ign amp, the idle actuator, the throttle switch and the injector plugs.
Also, remove and clean up the earth leads for the injectors (two ten mm bolts that also hold the fuel rail down).
Whats more worrying is the fact the low water and temp light came on, and when you topped it up and removed the filler cap it threw water out.
Either you have a leak, in which case it needs sorting before the car is used again, or the head gasket has blown. Which is a bit of a job to do on one of these cars!
Start by cleaning all the pligs up, run it up with the expansion tank cap off, look for bubbles in the coolant. If it starts throwing water out before the fans come in, either you have a massive air lock in the system, or the HG is FUBAR....
1989 BX 17TD P2 Hybrid
1990 BX 16V It's got big hairy bollocks
1971 BL 350FG ambulance
1993 Dennis Lance 132 It's got mahooosive hairy bollocks!
Euthenasia, because enough's enough already.
1990 BX 16V It's got big hairy bollocks
1971 BL 350FG ambulance
1993 Dennis Lance 132 It's got mahooosive hairy bollocks!
Euthenasia, because enough's enough already.
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mickey taker
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managed to play about with the car between showers ,
so far have bled the water system deffo no more bubbles , had the car running for about 20 minutes while doing this so took it for a run , went about 500 yards and it died again ,
started after a few minutes and drove fine again for about half a mile before dying again ,
have run the car with expansion cap off and no bubbles or over flowing , cleaned injector earths , cleaned all the plugs for the injectors the idle valve and the amp thingy and sprayed with wd40,could this be either something failing when it gets warm or could it be fuel related as when parked up it runs for a bit and then starts cutting out , sometimes it will pick up again sometimes it will just die ,
the warning light at the bottom right centre of the dash flashes (engine picture not sure what its for ) when the engine starts to die and I can hear a relay behind the dash clicking at the same time
on the road it seems to die when slowing down for junctions etc but if driven hard it will usually keep going
still got the throttle switch and battery to motor earth to do , I have noticed that although the battery earth clamp bolt is tight the clamp itself can still be moved on the terminal , is there anything I can pack this out with to get a tighter fit ?
am going to change dizzy cap , rotor and plugs just to rule them out and probably the coil as well
so far have bled the water system deffo no more bubbles , had the car running for about 20 minutes while doing this so took it for a run , went about 500 yards and it died again ,
started after a few minutes and drove fine again for about half a mile before dying again ,
have run the car with expansion cap off and no bubbles or over flowing , cleaned injector earths , cleaned all the plugs for the injectors the idle valve and the amp thingy and sprayed with wd40,could this be either something failing when it gets warm or could it be fuel related as when parked up it runs for a bit and then starts cutting out , sometimes it will pick up again sometimes it will just die ,
the warning light at the bottom right centre of the dash flashes (engine picture not sure what its for ) when the engine starts to die and I can hear a relay behind the dash clicking at the same time
on the road it seems to die when slowing down for junctions etc but if driven hard it will usually keep going
still got the throttle switch and battery to motor earth to do , I have noticed that although the battery earth clamp bolt is tight the clamp itself can still be moved on the terminal , is there anything I can pack this out with to get a tighter fit ?
am going to change dizzy cap , rotor and plugs just to rule them out and probably the coil as well
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Vanny
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okay, in order of drunken state,
cap. rotor, plugs. Just have a look at them! Plugs will likely be okay, rotor damage will be difficult to detect however looking from then opeing of the cap there should be triangular stud stiking proud of the cap by around 4mm. If these are charred and damaged then you might have a cap problem and thus you'll need a rotor and cap!
THing is though the Motronic ECU ONLY controls the INJECTION, the little picture of the engine with a 'K' on it (known as the 'K' light) tells you that the ECU thinks it has detected a fault state. If i remember your car is a H-reg so doesnt have a CAT or a knock sensor which really limits the number of fualts the ECU can tell you about!
Anyways in the nice drunken state i'm in i suggest that you check ALL connections for cleanliness especially those connected to the AFM and the ignition module connected to the big alluminium plate behind the battery. If the K light is on then there is a fault with injection but this might also be related to a fault in the ignition.
cap. rotor, plugs. Just have a look at them! Plugs will likely be okay, rotor damage will be difficult to detect however looking from then opeing of the cap there should be triangular stud stiking proud of the cap by around 4mm. If these are charred and damaged then you might have a cap problem and thus you'll need a rotor and cap!
THing is though the Motronic ECU ONLY controls the INJECTION, the little picture of the engine with a 'K' on it (known as the 'K' light) tells you that the ECU thinks it has detected a fault state. If i remember your car is a H-reg so doesnt have a CAT or a knock sensor which really limits the number of fualts the ECU can tell you about!
Anyways in the nice drunken state i'm in i suggest that you check ALL connections for cleanliness especially those connected to the AFM and the ignition module connected to the big alluminium plate behind the battery. If the K light is on then there is a fault with injection but this might also be related to a fault in the ignition.
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mickey taker
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the K light only flashes on and off on as the engine starts to die and flashes in time with the car spluttering and the relay clicking behind the dash if that makes any sense ,
it is Hreg so as you say has no cat or knock sensor
will carry on playing this week as and when I get time
thanks for all the help Vanny and Doc
it is Hreg so as you say has no cat or knock sensor
will carry on playing this week as and when I get time
thanks for all the help Vanny and Doc
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mickey taker
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well I have my fingers and toes crossed and am touching wood (leave it Doc you dirty sod ) as I type this ( no mean feat ).
Cleaned all the connections again , changed the air filter ( noticed mfa cover was loose as well ) and plugs and took the car out for a run and the fault seems to have gone .
drove for about 20 miles (much further than have been able to of late) , stopped and restarted the car a few times and no repeat of the previous issues ,
the car was fitted with Bosch super R6 285 plugs but I have now fitted NGK BCP 7ET 's
Thanks again for all the advice
Cleaned all the connections again , changed the air filter ( noticed mfa cover was loose as well ) and plugs and took the car out for a run and the fault seems to have gone .
drove for about 20 miles (much further than have been able to of late) , stopped and restarted the car a few times and no repeat of the previous issues ,
the car was fitted with Bosch super R6 285 plugs but I have now fitted NGK BCP 7ET 's
Thanks again for all the advice