BXProject

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 27 Jul 2007

Now I have a new one has anyone got any tips on the procedure for swapping them ,
I know about closing the vents to stop bits falling down the pipe work but how hard is it to change the cables and is there anything else I should check for
i.e. what could have caused the hot cold knob to break in the first place
thanks

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » 27 Jul 2007

mickey taker wrote: i.e. what could have caused the hot cold knob to break in the first place
thanks

Probably your water control valve is seized or choked with crud causing you to force the plastic knob until it breaks. The valve/knob should turn smoothly & easily if it's in good condition.

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 27 Jul 2007

ok thanks I will check that before I swap the panels ,

is it easy to check/repair /replace

Post by **Vanny** » 27 Jul 2007

plenty of silicon greese should get it working okay again! The 'tap' unit is actually removable without removing the heater matrix but its one hell of a fiddly job, if you get it off then you can easily clean it out and put it back in.

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 27 Sep 2007

Doc , what do you do to keep breaking these so that I can try and avoid doing it ?

Post by **Vanny** » 27 Sep 2007

probably pulling the fucking knobs off, they should be removed regulalry to ensure a slightly loose fit, they often bond to the plastic and thus snap.

Bily kills them by using brute force when turning the knob against a sticky water inlet valve, and i dont mind pointing out that the average joe can put in way more than enough torque to snap the fucking thing!

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 28 Sep 2007

I always break the bloody outlets off on the engine side of the bulkhead, they get brittle and shitty when they are aged a touch.

It's easy enough to free them up usually if the tap itself sticks, but forget turning the knob, that'll just break shit.
Work the tap itself directly. It's a bit of a twat to get at, but I've never yet had one that didn't unsieze..

Post by **Vanny** » 28 Sep 2007

man said control panel, non of your fancy shit doc!

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 29 Sep 2007

Vanny wrote:man said control panel, non of your fancy shit doc!

mickey taker wrote:Doc , what do you do to keep breaking these so that I can try and avoid doing it ?

I took that to mean the tap itself since it's the only bit I ever break like....

The control panel itself is a piece of piss to change, getting the cables set up perfect can be a touch time consuming, especially if the bowden clips are a bastard, other than that, dead easy.

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 29 Sep 2007

umm , actually I am doing both

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 29 Sep 2007

Ah, now I'm confused.......

So, er, which bit were you referring to about breaking then?
Or is it my mind what be broke like??

mickey taker · Post by **mickey taker** » 24 Oct 2007

I wish I had a left hand drive 16 valve ,
just been reading a thread on BXC ( sorry , I will accept my punishment )
and seen how easy the heater control tap is to get at

Bx Bandit · Post by **Bx Bandit** » 24 Oct 2007

Well you don't have a LHD so stop squealing little piggy or the Danish man will have you for breakfast!!

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 26 Oct 2007

It really aint that bad on a RHD car.
Easier on LHD granted, but not that much different.
If you want a piece of piss heater matrix change, get a 205! They take about 5 minutes, and theres no tap at all!

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replacing heater control panel

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