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Should I scrap my TD?

No you tosser, stop being lazy and fix her up good
6
46%
Yes dumb ass, do the easy thing for once and buy the blue one
7
54%
 
Total votes: 13

mickey taker
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Post by mickey taker » 29 Dec 2007

Vanny wrote:hmmm, is the childlow worthy though??
well its more of a case is Doc worthy (and we all know he certainly is )

coz it will make sense to remove the tow bar that he wants and swap the rear bumper at the same time :lol: :lol:
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smiffy
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Post by smiffy » 29 Dec 2007

He's never said he wanted a towbar?
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Post by mickey taker » 29 Dec 2007

I only found out this week otherwise he could have had it when we first met at the cambridgeshire show
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Bx Bandit
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Post by Bx Bandit » 14 Feb 2008

I went poking around my rear end.................of my TD and found more rust!!!
both piccies are looking up at the rear wheel arch. This hole can be felt inside the 'cubby hole' within the boot. Patching should be ok from the boot side, but............
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this piccy shows a rusty seam! From the boot side of things, I can see a seam further along from the hole pictured above, but this ain't the same seam as pictured, or at least, there is a large gap from the wheel arch side, but no gap from the boot side. Does mending this seam require removing the rear wing?
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David
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Post by David » 14 Feb 2008

I can't work out what angle I'm looking at the car from here... where is it?
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Bx Bandit
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Post by Bx Bandit » 14 Feb 2008

um it's the o/s with the front of the car pointing to the left of the piccy. The big hole is approx 1/3 of the way along the cubby hole from the rear
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die

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Post by mickey taker » 14 Feb 2008

:lol: good threads never die they just get resurrected now and again
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Bx Bandit
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Post by Bx Bandit » 14 Feb 2008

Aye......out of desperation :oops:
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Post by docchevron132 » 15 Feb 2008

If you're careful you shouldn't have to remove the wing, but frankly it makes things a good deal easier, and there aint too many spot welds to drill out to remove said..
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Bx Bandit
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Post by Bx Bandit » 15 Feb 2008

hmmmmm and how do you fit the bugger back on?
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die

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David
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Post by David » 15 Feb 2008

by welding back through the holes you made when drilling through the spotwelds.

I've noticed that there are now specific drillbits available to drill through spotwelds... a very good idea.
... all landings are in fact controlled crashes, and any crash you can walk away from is a good landing. The definition of a good pilot is a man with the same number of landings as take-offs.

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Post by Bx Bandit » 15 Feb 2008

I'd practice me welding some more then, else I'll make colossal fuck up with it. I've done a couple of patches now, not too bad once the er welds are ground back a bit :oops: Still finding inverted welding a sod. I need a shade lighter on the mask too cos it's almost impossible to see whats going on unless I'm really close.
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die

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Post by David » 15 Feb 2008

Inverted welding (or "overhead" welding, as it's called in the industry) is an utter twat tbh. The only advice I can give is to make sure the workpiece is absolutely clean bare metal, and that you're not welding with the voltage a bit high. Large lumps of molten metal in the face nftw.

Plug welding the drilled-out spot welds is fairly easy actually, and you can always grind/drill it back out again if it's not right.

What shade number are you using? I usually use about a 12 for general welding, and a 10 for lightweight (IE car body panel) welding outdoors in bright sunlight.
... all landings are in fact controlled crashes, and any crash you can walk away from is a good landing. The definition of a good pilot is a man with the same number of landings as take-offs.

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Post by Philhod » 15 Feb 2008

:D :D Shouldn`t be a problem without taking the wing off, but you need to make a patch for the seam, bent at the rght angle (not quite 90)

Clean as best you can but dont turn the juice up when you weld, use the technique I said before, keeping the tip straight on (90) to the weld direction rather than at an angle towards it and bring the tip further from the arc. You can see what you are doing better and no drips.

O/ Head MIG welding is no different to any other position. The settings are more important than the welder. If you can manage to prop the barrel up with some wood or something, so you can get underneath it. You can practice getting it right on that first, like we did on Saturday 8)
Get an 8 EPW glass if you can`t see well enuff :lol:
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Post by Bx Bandit » 15 Feb 2008

Thanks for the tips guys. I have no idea what shade lense I've got, I assume it must be etched on? I found Phils too bright and mine too dark, but as you mention David the sunlight conditions make a big difference. I've taken to taping a rag onto the mask to drape over my neck/shoulders to keep the sunlight from reflecting off the inside of the the lense. I'm also finding access (particularly on the 2nd patch) an utter bastard, both in terms of getting the 'gun' positioned correctly but also getting my head close enough. I'll visit a welding shop and take my lense along to compare...may be worth buying a couple of different shades for the conditions.

The seam Phil is a bit of a stretch from underneath, and currently, I haven't a cat in hells chance of doing anything reasonable....except with lots of practice, which as you suggest would be good to try on the barrel! I thought I knew the extent of the rust, so this recent 'dicovery' has pissed on my fireworks a bit :evil: I have yet to look at the n/s and it's bound to be worse!!!
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die

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Post by Philhod » 15 Feb 2008

:) :) They go up in numbers as they go darker, the lightest you can get is 6. When I tried yours I got the impression it was about an 11 or 12, standard for spray transfer (thick stuff) is 13. You may have found my 8 a bit light, but dont be concerned, it won`t damage your eyes. Remember, you can`t get a flash even if you have plain glass in, the glare will affect your vision for a bit but it will do no damage.
Even a flash doesn`t do any permanent damage.

:idea: If you have to turn up the juice and it burns through, try swapping over to the .8 wire and tip, without changing the setting.
You don`t need to get your head right in there, let the tip shield drop back from the arc by about a inch. You can let it back up to about an inch and half, with the gas on the setting we had on Saturday :wink: and don`t forget to occilate or circle the arc, like I showed you. 8)
Bit of a barsteward I don`t live a bit closer. :x
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Post by Bx Bandit » 17 Feb 2008

When I tried yours Phil, it was too bright to see what was going on. Conversely, mine is the opposite! Nowt done this weekend cos I went on the piss with Charlie after we both scratched our chins, ummed and ahhhed and decided it too cold to shit.....so the beer won!! Today, we've been up the Breacons with friends....took the valver out for a spin 8)
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Post by Philhod » 17 Feb 2008

:D :D Good on yer mate, hope you had a good day out.

Beer always did beat welding anyway :P 8) 8)
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Post by Bx Bandit » 17 Feb 2008

It was a good day mate, yesterday and today. I don't mind it being cold too much, but i love the sun. Walking up the Breacons was the prefect antidote to my hangover...well nearly perfect, cos tonights beer has been slightly better 8) :lol:
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Post by charlie » 17 Feb 2008

u faired better then me

i had to settle for a trip round fuckin asda

but ive got more scrumpy to look forward to tomorrow night


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