- Bx Bandit
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Bit of XM advice on behalf of Charles and teh Silver Shed
Right, I'm asking on behalf of charlie cos he's too damn lazy and busy (apparently) to do it himself so I'm being his bitch and asking for him!!!
Cambelt change on XM 2.1 TD Auto. How do you get the AUX belt pulley bolt undone...cos the engine is spinning round no matter what gear it's in (it's as if it's in neutral no matter what is selected...)
Also, regarding aux belt tensioners, having done 97K should they be replaced or not. Obviously, cambelt tensioner/roller will be done
Apart from water pump and thermostat, is there any other recommended maintanence to be carried out whilst working at this end of the engine.
thank you
xxxxxx
charlie
p.s. if anyone wants free beer and a party, come to charlies house...prostitutes not supplied so bring your own!!!
Cambelt change on XM 2.1 TD Auto. How do you get the AUX belt pulley bolt undone...cos the engine is spinning round no matter what gear it's in (it's as if it's in neutral no matter what is selected...)
Also, regarding aux belt tensioners, having done 97K should they be replaced or not. Obviously, cambelt tensioner/roller will be done
Apart from water pump and thermostat, is there any other recommended maintanence to be carried out whilst working at this end of the engine.
thank you
xxxxxx
charlie
p.s. if anyone wants free beer and a party, come to charlies house...prostitutes not supplied so bring your own!!!
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die
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i'd assume that a) your following the haynes instructions b) you havent realised the haynes instructions are for the MANUAL gearbox
you can stick it any any gear you like, i very much doubt the box will let you put any power through it to undo the bolt. In my mind the logic is sto stick it in park, but i suspect you can't do that properly without the engine running. However DONT FUCK WITH IT untill someone who knows what they are talking about can advise, i know fuck all about auto's and wouldn't want you to kill it!
you can stick it any any gear you like, i very much doubt the box will let you put any power through it to undo the bolt. In my mind the logic is sto stick it in park, but i suspect you can't do that properly without the engine running. However DONT FUCK WITH IT untill someone who knows what they are talking about can advise, i know fuck all about auto's and wouldn't want you to kill it!
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If it`s an XUD it will have a hole in the flywheel to time the btm 1/2.
Unless there is a different timing system on the auto, the torque converter should have said hole.
There is a hole in the engine casing RH side above the starter motor, if you poke a 6-8mm rod through it, and turn the engine by hand it should lock up when you find one that lines up with it.
Job done
ps It will snap the pall if you force it with it in park
Unless there is a different timing system on the auto, the torque converter should have said hole.
There is a hole in the engine casing RH side above the starter motor, if you poke a 6-8mm rod through it, and turn the engine by hand it should lock up when you find one that lines up with it.
Job done
ps It will snap the pall if you force it with it in park
72... AND STILL ROCKIN..........around the world...... NOT in a chair yet
Now XBX And into HDI.....as well as other ...err.... things.
Now XBX And into HDI.....as well as other ...err.... things.
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Can't see that would work as Park locks the transmission t'other side of the torque converter so engine would still spin. After all you can start the engine in Park and can put it in park with the engine running(when stationary!!!).Vanny wrote:In my mind the logic is sto stick it in park
Perhaps a wooden wedge between the pulley and belt would give you sufficient resistance to undo but if its rotating with the pulley are yoiu sure that's the right bolt? Is that pulley not fixed to a quadrant like the BX for tensioning purposes? If so you have two other bolts to loosen and then the belt will slip off.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- David
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It all depends on whether the Auto still has the hole in the flywheel (driveplate) to accept the 8mm pin through the block flange. I would suspect that it does, as there's no other way to lock the crankshaft at TDC.
So, what you do is remove the starter (3 bolts) and hang it out of the way. Now rotate the engine to TDC, and insert an 8mm pin* through the hole in the block flange. Wiggle the engine back and forth across TDC until the pin falls into the flywheel/driveplate and locks it solid.
Now you can put a big long bar on the bottom pulley bolt and heave on it.
Even on manual gearboxes you have to do this if the bolt is tight, as with the car in gear there's simply too much "give" in the system to be able to get any kind of leverage on the pulley bolt. With the pin in, the crankshaft is properly solid, and hence you can really lean on it. Plus there's then no worry about damaging the gearbox with 400lbf-ft of torque.
Alternatively you buy a big compressor and a massive 3/4" drive rattle gun and spin it off in seconds.
* the best thing I have found to use as a pin is a long (like 100mm or so) socket head (IE you use an allen key on it) M8 bolt, with the threads and head cut off, and the end rounded into a bullnose. This gives you about 80mm of plain shanked 8mm pin, made of super-hard 12.9 grade alloy steel. It would take something like 4 tonnes of shear force to break that.
So, what you do is remove the starter (3 bolts) and hang it out of the way. Now rotate the engine to TDC, and insert an 8mm pin* through the hole in the block flange. Wiggle the engine back and forth across TDC until the pin falls into the flywheel/driveplate and locks it solid.
Now you can put a big long bar on the bottom pulley bolt and heave on it.
Even on manual gearboxes you have to do this if the bolt is tight, as with the car in gear there's simply too much "give" in the system to be able to get any kind of leverage on the pulley bolt. With the pin in, the crankshaft is properly solid, and hence you can really lean on it. Plus there's then no worry about damaging the gearbox with 400lbf-ft of torque.
Alternatively you buy a big compressor and a massive 3/4" drive rattle gun and spin it off in seconds.
* the best thing I have found to use as a pin is a long (like 100mm or so) socket head (IE you use an allen key on it) M8 bolt, with the threads and head cut off, and the end rounded into a bullnose. This gives you about 80mm of plain shanked 8mm pin, made of super-hard 12.9 grade alloy steel. It would take something like 4 tonnes of shear force to break that.
... all landings are in fact controlled crashes, and any crash you can walk away from is a good landing. The definition of a good pilot is a man with the same number of landings as take-offs.
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David wrote:
So, what you do is remove the starter (3 bolts)
you heretic! What you want is the correctly bend bar that slots down the back of the starter motor so perfectly that you dont have to line it up or any of that bollox it just slips straight in (ooh er) i have two of said bars, i really should start making them up and setting the buggers, amazingly useful!
@W2G, i did state i had no idea about Auto's, driven only a small number in this country (all citroens, and mostly owned by citroen), but yes i do see what your saying, i dont really know jack shit about the auto cog box, its all voodoo to me
- smiffy
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Vanny, have you ever heard the expression "throwing a spanner in the works"?
Well, when you put an autobox in park, that is exactly what you are doing.
Think of it like this...the parking brake pawl, is like wedging a screwdriver in the teeth of a cog.
That's why you must NEVER apply park when still in motion, because you'll just fuck it up totally!
I don't even like leaving a car in park, what if some arse crashes into it while you're gone?
I prefer manual boxes for that reason.
john s
Well, when you put an autobox in park, that is exactly what you are doing.
Think of it like this...the parking brake pawl, is like wedging a screwdriver in the teeth of a cog.
That's why you must NEVER apply park when still in motion, because you'll just fuck it up totally!
I don't even like leaving a car in park, what if some arse crashes into it while you're gone?
I prefer manual boxes for that reason.
john s
They say an apple a day keeps the doctor away...
but now that most of them are muslim, I find bacon and sausages work better!
but now that most of them are muslim, I find bacon and sausages work better!
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hmm this is going to turn into 'auto boxes for vanny the idiot'
okay, so thats roughly how i invisaged the park working, but i guess i expected a big disc and a clamp, but a wedge will do. It sounds like it locks the transmission (as i would expect) but doesn't 'lock the clutch' as us manual thinking people might expect.
tell me more about the torque converter!
okay, so thats roughly how i invisaged the park working, but i guess i expected a big disc and a clamp, but a wedge will do. It sounds like it locks the transmission (as i would expect) but doesn't 'lock the clutch' as us manual thinking people might expect.
tell me more about the torque converter!
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When you're trying to visualise just from the words it's easy to get it wrong like I did thinking Bandit was talking about the alternator pulley rather than the crankshaft pulley.Vanny wrote: @W2G, i did state i had no idea about Auto's, driven only a small number in this country (all citroens, and mostly owned by citroen), but yes i do see what your saying, i dont really know jack shit about the auto cog box, its all voodoo to me
In auto's the stiffness of the coupling increases with speed (where have we heard that before? ) so when the fluid is not swirling then one part being rotated slips easily past the other part.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- smiffy
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Well, you know what the vanes of a turbo fan look like? immagine two sets of those, very close together, but NOT touching. you can spin each side independantly. put these two vanes in a casing, and fill with oil. now, spin one side, and the oil will drag the other one round....there you go, fluid drive!Vanny wrote:hmm this is going to turn into 'auto boxes for vanny the idiot'
okay, so thats roughly how i invisaged the park working, but i guess i expected a big disc and a clamp, but a wedge will do. It sounds like it locks the transmission (as i would expect) but doesn't 'lock the clutch' as us manual thinking people might expect.
tell me more about the torque converter!
Perhaps a bit simplistic, but you get the picture!
john s
They say an apple a day keeps the doctor away...
but now that most of them are muslim, I find bacon and sausages work better!
but now that most of them are muslim, I find bacon and sausages work better!
- David
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I know... I have one too, but given that you can't even see the hole without removing the starter, for a first-timer it has to be easier to remove the starter. Once you know where the hole is, then you can be clever with special tools!Vanny wrote:you heretic! What you want is the correctly bend bar that slots down the back of the starter motor so perfectly that you dont have to line it up or any of that bollox it just slips straight in (ooh er) i have two of said bars, i really should start making them up and setting the buggers, amazingly useful!David wrote:
So, what you do is remove the starter (3 bolts)
There's been more than one occasion where I've not been able to find the hole (common problem I'm told!) and have had to remove the starter to find it. Depends on the type of starter fitted I think.
... all landings are in fact controlled crashes, and any crash you can walk away from is a good landing. The definition of a good pilot is a man with the same number of landings as take-offs.
- Bx Bandit
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Gosh thanks guys! I've done my bx td several times and the xantia once but they are both manual!!....so I know the 'locating' hole behind the starter motor and yes they can be a bugger to get to, so removing the s/m will be done if needs be. I know it's not advisable to use an 8mm rod through the hole to lock the flywheel/crankshaft so it's a case of trying to ascertain how to stop the engine rotating whilst undoing the pulley bolt by another means....As was pointed out by one of you clever lot, then removing the flywheel cover and making a locking plate may be the best way...how about using an allen key to lock the flywheel?
Was just thinking of Daves.....er........rod and most of the stuff I have lying about is 8.8 but, I do have a cit M8 cap head bolt about which could be used but it's the standard nickle plated stuff ......not sure will be made of 12.9 or cheese?
Was just thinking of Daves.....er........rod and most of the stuff I have lying about is 8.8 but, I do have a cit M8 cap head bolt about which could be used but it's the standard nickle plated stuff ......not sure will be made of 12.9 or cheese?
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die
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I have a titanium rod 10 mil turned down to about 7.5 and bent at 90degs but It`s still fartherless sometimes.
Next time I have one of these in bitz, I`m going to put a 7.5 dia long drill right through and see where it comes out on the clutch housing. if it causes too much paralax error, (being further away) I could always fit a bracket further out still to align it. There are no obstrctannoyers on that side Hmmmmm.....
Next time I have one of these in bitz, I`m going to put a 7.5 dia long drill right through and see where it comes out on the clutch housing. if it causes too much paralax error, (being further away) I could always fit a bracket further out still to align it. There are no obstrctannoyers on that side Hmmmmm.....
72... AND STILL ROCKIN..........around the world...... NOT in a chair yet
Now XBX And into HDI.....as well as other ...err.... things.
Now XBX And into HDI.....as well as other ...err.... things.
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- charlie
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errr wot u lot on about
cause bandits pulling yer pisser
yes i might ave a problem with a little bit of the silver surfing shed but
the free beer and party, with in house slutamatic vision and dirty fingernail scratch and sniff pants is at a small semi detached retreat
not far from the m4
outside cardiff, so it cant be me
near the back of the balck sheep bums bitter plant
aka
ftw
banditos
for it is he
and why arnt u in the fuckin rain workin
cause bandits pulling yer pisser
yes i might ave a problem with a little bit of the silver surfing shed but
the free beer and party, with in house slutamatic vision and dirty fingernail scratch and sniff pants is at a small semi detached retreat
not far from the m4
outside cardiff, so it cant be me
near the back of the balck sheep bums bitter plant
aka
ftw
banditos
for it is he
and why arnt u in the fuckin rain workin
- Bx Bandit
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Why aren't you at work workin? you have a choice then charlie....bolt through tdc hole in flywheel or a locking 'thing' to fit the teeth on the flywheel....?
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die
- charlie
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dont know what the fuck yer talkin about cause im goona do this
Hi Charlie.
You might still find the bolt a bit of a sod to get started. Another way is to get a good quality and proper fit socket; make sure it's fully home on the bolt head and then as close in as you can, bring your T bar handle (probably with some sort of extension) down to the ground, so it's wedged at the 'twenty five past' position, as you look square on to the pulley. Remove the cable from the injection pump solenoid (so it can't start) and then have a helper just flick the starter motor over on the key. The bolt will be loose. Ideally, if you can do it safely, maintain a square push on the back of the socket with a length of wood, or similar, during the process, to stop it jumping out.
Don't forget while you're at it, it's a good time to replace the crank pulley seal and the water pump.
Mike.
from the xm club
sounds good and dangerous
Hi Charlie.
You might still find the bolt a bit of a sod to get started. Another way is to get a good quality and proper fit socket; make sure it's fully home on the bolt head and then as close in as you can, bring your T bar handle (probably with some sort of extension) down to the ground, so it's wedged at the 'twenty five past' position, as you look square on to the pulley. Remove the cable from the injection pump solenoid (so it can't start) and then have a helper just flick the starter motor over on the key. The bolt will be loose. Ideally, if you can do it safely, maintain a square push on the back of the socket with a length of wood, or similar, during the process, to stop it jumping out.
Don't forget while you're at it, it's a good time to replace the crank pulley seal and the water pump.
Mike.
from the xm club
sounds good and dangerous
- charlie
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- Bx Bandit
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Don't fancy that myself mate...not a bitcharlie wrote:dont know what the fuck yer talkin about cause im goona do this
Hi Charlie.
You might still find the bolt a bit of a sod to get started. Another way is to get a good quality and proper fit socket; make sure it's fully home on the bolt head and then as close in as you can, bring your T bar handle (probably with some sort of extension) down to the ground, so it's wedged at the 'twenty five past' position, as you look square on to the pulley. Remove the cable from the injection pump solenoid (so it can't start) and then have a helper just flick the starter motor over on the key. The bolt will be loose. Ideally, if you can do it safely, maintain a square push on the back of the socket with a length of wood, or similar, during the process, to stop it jumping out.
Don't forget while you're at it, it's a good time to replace the crank pulley seal and the water pump.
Mike.
from the xm club
sounds good and dangerous
....There he goes, one of God's own prototypes, a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production......too weird too live.....and too rare to die