BXProject

[Vanny]

Whats the best way to go about it?

i'm thinking i'll go it outside the house, on stands and ramps.

Pressure release undone
Pull the exhaust off (and sort the blowing on refit) for access to the HC
idnetify the burst pipe
then disconnect at the rear?
pop it out of the plastic clips
disconnect from the safety valve
slide pipe out (whats hte best route to take??)
Make up new pipe of same length
roughly bend to shape
refit and finish bending


best way to get the old seals out?

thinking of using a diesel spill pipe blank on the ends of the new pipe to stop shit getting in?

i might cone off the street to save from being bothered

and if i get chance i might change the FDV

I'm also thinking i'll hydra flusht he whole lot as i have it in stock (5litres for £10 GET IN) when i say hydraflush it, i reckon for a half and half blend and leave it in premanantly. I'm yet to hear of any problems with hydraflush being left in, and Pleiades have a GSA that has run on hydraflush for over 80k (just to prove it was safe!)

If anyone is really bored and want to come watch you know where i'll be!

[Vanny]

actually, just seent he weather, fuck doing it outside! Think the farm to be honest.

[Way2go]

Whats the best way to go about it?

i'm thinking i'll go it outside the house, on stands and ramps.

Pressure release undone

Before you release pressure, put car on high and loosen rear spheres. You will gain working room after depressurising if you remove the spheres and hinge the subframe down to get at the nest of pipes going over the n/s/r subframe. Otherwise access & pipe manoevreing is a nightmare!

The main front to rear pipe on mine (ABS version) ran from the unions on the engine compartment firewall to the T junction in the middle of the car at the back (not into the height corrector itself).

Oh and it's not necessary to remove the exhaust, just the rubbers so it is still attached at the manifold and it will hinge down out of the way but I guess optional if you want to do further exhaust work at the same time.

[docchevron132]

/\ what he said.
Although I always tend to drop the exhaust, just to give better access and more room for me, beer and some smoking room!! Oh, and the spare wheel..

It really is much easier with the subframe dropped a bit (from the front mounts obviousley).
Although it is easier using Kunifer with the subframe in place as Kunifer is very pliable.

You'll find that all four pipes should undo at the front end without hassle (well actually 3 of them, the fourth 3.5mm pipe actually is a return from the HC and attaches to a rubber return towards the O/S of the back of the front subframe), but the liklyhood of any of the unions undoind easily from the rear end is remote.
They are always rotted solid.
So apply plenty of a good freeing agent before going anywhere near the car with a view to doing the job.
Some heat maybe required as will a 6 sided socket and probably a really good pair of Mole Grips.

Removing the clips without breaking them can be fun though..

Best way to make the new pipes up is to remove old pipe then use a piece of string / wire / whatever to measure the length then cut a new bit kunifer to same length, if in doubt at all make it a tad over size, there's plenty of room up the back end to lose any excess..

Old seals can usually be removed with a small screwdriver, although I tend to use a self tapping screw these days, does the job in miliseconds.

Good luck young un!

[PiLsY.]

Weather's cleared here mate, you should have plenty of time!

Besides, good to get a bit of practice in eh?

[Way2go]

Removing the clips without breaking them can be fun though..

Too true!

I don't think Citroen heard of uPVC.

[Bx Bandit]

Only thing I've heard about Hydraflush is that it provides little lubrication, hence the recommendation to use max 5000kms (I think) I used some in both my BX TD and the Xantia. It made sweet FA difference in the Xantia although there was more than the average amount of crud in the filters/tank of the TD.

[Philhod]

Err like what they said ok. The first time I did this the plastic clips were a bastard to undo without busting them. I thouroughly cleaned the underseal off them second time painted them with diesel......and they flicked open using two screwdrivers.
Like Doc said easing oil on everything and leave it for about 10 hrs so if you do the clips at the same time .......
could save a lot of swearing

I know you got the pipe and everything, but these long ones are not the ones I would choose to make up. If you dont get the bends right it will be will be real difficult to close the clips to fasten. the readymade is only about £12.......I should have some small zip ties ready

Have a nice time

[Vanny]

ready made pipes are £20, i wont get one delivered tomorrow now and quite honestly Kunifer is too highly rated!

NOT convinced about dropping the rear subframe on the street, actually not convinced at all, and why the suggestion that the rear spheres need removing? i can't envissage it myself!

SOunds to me like the best bet is to do it like running cables, feed from the rear and stand bending and fitting fron the front. Hell i could even cut the pipe out of the plastic bracketsand re thread, though i'm not bothered in the near future if they brake, i'll buy replacements, remember this is a STOP GAP to get me about, so only ONE pipe to do (unless it becomes very easy!).

[Way2go]

NOT convinced about dropping the rear subframe on the street, actually not convinced at all, and why the suggestion that the rear spheres need removing? i can't envissage it myself!

Well, what can I say.......nor was I when I embarked on the job.........part way through (after some time has passed) you learn the error of your ways.......bite the bullet and drop the subframe.........progress accelerates and you wonder why you fucked around and didn't do that in the first place!

Plus if you're using a Cit pipe, this is nicely pre-bent to shape and there's no way that you can thread it through with the subframe up without buggering about with the bends and the amount you would have to bend it will possibly break it!

Now, you own the job so the choice is yours!

[docchevron132]

Dropping the subframe really does make life easier, HOWEVER, if you're doing it on the street, it's only a get you by measure and you're only doing the one pipe then ina ll honesty I'd probably not drop the subframe and just feed it through.
Just make sure it aint touching anything around the area where the pipe passes over the subframe since there is very little clearence.

If you leave the rear mounts on the subframe but undo the front mounts then you are limited to how much the subframe can tilt down because the spheres hit the boot floor.

[Philhod]

I`ve done all mine on 4 axle stands set high enuff to give me space to get right under. I`ve always fitted from back to front...but that`s using ready made pipes. Just a thought... if you have enough male / female connecters you could work from both ends and join them in the middle...will make pipe handling and bending much easier

[Vanny]

used two ramps and a kerb in the end. It turns out that i got away with keeping the car up on its own suspension (propped like) as the brake issolates with the engine off (thank fuck for the ABS pump).

didn't need to from the subframe, i can see arguments for now, but to be honest i could get enough access that the pipe is correctly clipped in above the sub frame. How clever am i!

[docchevron132]

I guess we'll all know how clever you are when you get your results in a few months!

[Philhod]

How delightfully cruel my dear sir

Pure gold that was