BXProject

[Vanny]

sounds like you were tring to use the old BT master as a slave

Is that a problem? The difference that a master gives is the tie down capacitance and protection circuitry, i've used masters as slaves before now without a problem. Sounds more like the 'bodge' didnt take into account that you need to cross over the lines to link the systems together? Similar to networking really.

[mat_the_cat]

Didn't know what the actual differences were but assumed that you couldn't use one for the other job. You're probably right, hadn't thought of that.

[Philhod]

Well I'm not into this bondage stuff so I'm not sure what your on about, and let me tell you I'm nobodies slave....master perhaps but.

I had a box near the window, one with a slidey thing at the front where you stick the phone plug it. The wires came in from BT and I have my phone plugged into it. I also coupled a wire into that box using the international set up of terminals 2, 5, and 8, to an old BT splitter box promptly connecting that to my 3 extensions. One in the kitchen and one in each bedroom.

All worked without problem till Mr cable brings their line in to a box with a slidey thing on the front, at the skirting board 1 meter below the BT box, plugs me phone in and it works. Unfortunately the ext phones are now dead, obviously. So, I disconnect the 3 wires coming from dead BT incoming, then plug in a joining wire between the 2 boxes....FA, check all the brass tine things, all OK, still won't work. Cut off ends, poke holes in the side of each box, shove wires in connect to 2,5,8, job done everything working.
Like I said NO logic. Just stupid fucking wiring.

[mat_the_cat]

After looking at the Xantia wiring diagram again I've seen that pin 2 is earthed via a relay which is closed when the temperature switch is hot and/or the throttle is opened beyond a certain point. If I leave this wire unconnected I get post heat for about 15-20 seconds, if I earth this wire I get post heat for a few minutes. I've temporarily connected it to the battery negative terminal for now, but once I go back and get the temperature sensor I'll just wire it direct to that.

Bugger. I was wrong with my reading of the wiring diagram - the relay is normally closed (earthing pin 3 on the glowplug relay) whereas the temperature switch is normally open until a certain temperature. Missing out the extra relay and wiring pin 3 of the glowplug relay direct to the temperature switch gives me 15-20 seconds of post heat when the engine is cold, but a few minutes when it's hot...not ideal.
And don't you start Phil, going on about wiring not making any sense!