BXProject

[jayw]

Anyone any good with brazing rods...?

Well, i'm about to pull the engine out of the valver and a few years ago (after a couple of hundred miles proper hooning from Basingstoke to Cambridge & back at 2am) my engine & gearbox decided to part company due to a couple of bolts snapping. Now, along with snapping the bolts it also managed to clean snap off the "lug" from the back of the block that bolts through to the box (the bottom rear of the four).

Now, obviously as it's Ally it can't be welded so i'm assuming my only real option is Brazing it back on. I've never been able to master Brazing myself, so it'll have to be a pro job.

Anyone know of any pro's down my neck of the woods, i'll have to transport the engine & box together as the lug will need to be reattached in situ otherwise you can guarantee it won't line up afterwards...

Any thoughts...?

[Philhod]

You can't braze aluminium unless you know how to get round the laws of science
Ally melts at 660 and brazing spelter at 7 - 800 depending on composition.

Using an ally or dural filler and pure argon, it will MIG or TIG weld perfectly well.

Brass, Bronze, cupronickel and Mild steel, (amongst others) will braze and there is no mystique about brazing.
The items are fitted together with a running fit and then heated up to past the spelter melting point. Bang some flux (borax) round it then run the spelter into the joint, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slowly. jobbed !!

Note:- Brazing is not permanent, like welding, and can be sweated apart. Look at it as more of an adhesive, albeit a very strong bond.