BXProject

Right guys, I've got the Dasboard Pod nearly out but can't remove it because although all cables can be disconnected from the meters, the cables that go to the switches either side have BIG connectors that are TOO big to pass through the gaps either side of the pod.

Hopefully there is an easy answer to this! I was hoping to remove whole pod and then work indoors on a partial strip, clean and re-lubricate of this noisy speedo.

BTW, is it a good idea to run some 3in1 oil down the top speedo cable while I have the access?

Thick oils are a no no, they tend to congeal, but I've put wd 40 down there with no ill effects

Philhod wrote:Thick oils are a no no, they tend to congeal, but I've put wd 40 down there with no ill effects

3in1 is a thin lubricating oil Phil, WD40 is more of a releasing agent containing marginal lubricant for that purpose although I know many consider it a jack-of-all-trades. I take it that your answer relates to the running it down the cable bit?

Any clues on the main question of how to remove the pod from the car? The connectors on the switch wiring are an abortionate design. You would have thought they would have some in-line connectors to disconnect if theres no space to feed the bastards through.

If you're so inclined I actually find removing the cable complete, hanging it up (straight up and down like) and feeding ATF down it does wonders for smoothness...

As for the dash pod, leave the connectors attached to the switches.
There should be ample wiring legth to flip the pod over so it's upside down and remove the clock set without unplugging the switch gear at all.
Easier witht he stering wheel removed though, but still possible with the wheel on..

Ah, I got to that stage already with all wires off except for the switch stuff and it could be turned upside down. Was at the stage of debating which screws/fastengs released the circuit board when the daylight started to fail (bloody short winter days!).

Also, am I being too thorough trying to strip the speedo as it's still smooth and reading right? Should I just pour oil or lithium spray grease into the the input bearing seeing as I can leave the clock upside down for a while. The noise is definitely rotational so that, without looking inside, is likely to be a dry bearing as Doc suggested.

Having now stripped the speedo from the Instrument Cluster, I can see the cause of the noise is not as straightforward as just a problem of a dry rotational bearing on the cable input.



The metal drum system is attached to the plastic skeleton at only 2 points (North-s***h) which are spigots in the alloy casting of the input bearing and then peened over. There are no fixings in the East-West plane and the casting should just butt up against the plastic in this orientation.



I say "should" but because of the uncentered leverage of the cable over the years, the alloy casting has bent over time in the East-West direction allowing the assembly to rock about the North-s***h fixings because the attachment is only a cruciform. The cable outer probably expands when the heater is on, pushing it more over to one side and hence why the problem goes away when hot.



A couple of shots to show the extent of "lean" that the cable has caused over time.




This is one of the only two points that the assembly can be tightened:



That's not a screw its part of the casting. If both can be squeezed to make it tight it might cure it. Ideally the casting should be straightened too but that's a real breakage risk.

Basically the design is too weak for a cable bending into it in an East-West direction. I wonder if there is less strain on the LHD cars.

Shame really because this speedo is spot on against sat-nav and is non-jerky on the needle!

Looking at picture 5. If you've loosened the casting from it's plastic support, you should be able to get a shim under the right hand side (looking at that picture). I would guess about 1.5 mm, and see if it straightens when you re tighten it up.
You can buy shimsteel in, well any size really, but if you get a length of say .025 mm you can add bitz til it's straight.
If that works release it again and paint your little pile of shims with modelers glue, before re tightening.

Philhod wrote:Looking at picture 5. If you've loosened the casting from it's plastic support, you should be able to get a shim under the right hand side (looking at that picture). I would guess about 1.5 mm, and see if it straightens when you re tighten it up.

That had crossed my mind initially Phil. Unfortunately that part of the casting is used to register the two mileometer drive gears and the common cross shaft between the mating interface. You can see the indents for these if you look at picture 3 (that bit is on the left in this picture), the other end of the shaft is located between the interface on the other side, whilst that shaft is driven by a worm on the main spinner shaft.

So basically the best fix would be to straighten the metal at the left on Pic3 (rt on your pic5) but if I remember right that is made from what is called "white metal" and has a habit of snapping if you try to reform it.

I think I'm going to just oil it and put it back in after I've pinched up the one accessible fixing and hopefully that just "may" be sufficient for now. Especially as I don't have a spare to hand.

Yes I see what you mean, but it doesn't look as though 1 mm would put it out of sync.
Anyway whatever you do don't put ANY type of grease in there.
Doc uses ATF, which is nice and thin, so I'd go with that, sparingly, for lube.

Yes, yes, I know he usually prefers vaseline

Well, it is cheaper than KY, and more easily explainable to any passengers int he car as to why it's there..

White metal = Crapite, but if you're gentle it'll probably go without busting.

Never seen one go like that before!

docchevron132 wrote:Well, it is cheaper than KY, and more easily explainable to any passengers int he car as to why it's there..

The chemical reaction with the condom might not be so easily explainable to a GF when she finds little Docs or Doc-ettes on the way though...........

Bloody hard to do if you turn them over first though eh!

docchevron132 wrote:Bloody hard to do if you turn them over first though eh!

Well. there's still a choice unless you've gone over to the gay side!

Not yet, but if it's a choice betwixt rear end = no kids or front door = potential kids, I'll use the tradesmans!

Not yet, but if it's a choice betwixt rear end = no kids or front door = potential kids, I'll use the tradesmans!

Exactament!!!! nice to get some grip from your woman occasionally

Went that way for a bit till I had my strings cut

Could just be that we've been in some right loose slags mind....

erm....err... I wouldn't possibly care to comment

nor me, obviousley, erm, just a thought really....

'ere Doc, that excuse for a bird at the garage was asking if you were still alive after drinking the eleventy billion bottles of ale you bought. She wants you! But the other girlies (most of whom I'd shag) rekon she's a lesbian though. But don't go there mate, not unless you are incredibly brave and intend performing some sort of scientific experiment whilst you're at it!

Seriousley?
I mean, you're not shitting me?
Cos I just might pop over if she did!
Really!