BXProject

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 02 Apr 2008

Just been out for a quick blast in my 'new' TZD and after Pilsy spotted the brake lights didn't work at first driving it home the other day I've found some other glitches.
First off the driver's door didn't want to open and took 4 or 5 attempts yanking the handle before it would.
Secondly the entire o/s/r light cluster doesn't work (though realise this may be a bad earth or connection so will remove cluster tomorrow and have a look) and finally (so far!) the headlamp flasher doesn't work unless the headlights are on. Just to quantify what I mean by that they do NOT work if all lights are off and they do NOT work if just the sidelights are on.
I did wonder if the stalk was knackered to be honest but don't understand why they would flash or stay on high beam if this was the case.
Any ideas please? Thanks in advance.

Post by **Vanny** » 02 Apr 2008

o/s/r cluster is linked directly to the n/s/r cluster across the back, single cable, probably unplugged on the n/s OR its got a fucked up tow bar electrics, in whcih case CUT THE WHOLE LOT at the tow sockect and it will cure

Philhod · Post by **Philhod** » 02 Apr 2008

Glad you like your "new" mowtah.
The door quite often is a matter of adjustment of the shutting catcher sometimes the door also gets out of alignment by worn hingepins....or dare I say it, rust in the A post.... no never

Once the rear cluster is removed... you will see the multiplug clean out the lightunit while it`s off and reconnect the multiplug with a bit of grease on the terminals once you`ve cleaned them and all will be ok providing of course that the bulbs including brake ones (they are separate not dual fillament) are ok

I had that exact problem with a flasher .....err leave it

I`m no leki so some guy I know cured it for me. He said when the flasher is used with no lights, or only sidelights, it goes through a relay. when it is used with the headlights on it goes through the headlight relay. He bunged a new relay in and it worked. It was somewhere behind the fusebox.... he explained it all very clearly and of course I said.... yes err right

Hope these ramblings help

Terry · Post by **Terry** » 02 Apr 2008

If its anything like my tzd was when I bought it a can of "Electrical Switchcleaner" wont go amiss .......it wont "cure all ills"......but it sorted a few niggly probs out on mine [like various switches not working etc].

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 02 Apr 2008

Cheers dudes. Vanny, it HAS got towbar electrics but cutting them off will be a last resort job as I need them to tow a caravan.

Phil, cheers for info on flashers. Does anyone have a picture of exactly where the relay lives and what it looks like please?

Post by **Vanny** » 02 Apr 2008

well i can fit them back on (Properly) in 6 weeks

on the flasher front, the relay is possibly the one just above the steering column in line witht he heater tap and is a standard 'black' 5 pin relay

Bx Bandit · Post by **Bx Bandit** » 02 Apr 2008

Off hand mate, I don't know about the headlamp flash situation. As Vanny suggested, in the o/s rear cluster is fed from the n/s. As well as cleaning all contacts, lubing with vaseline and making sure the two bolted .earth points are sound, try twisting each male contact in the lamp clusters....

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 02 Apr 2008

Thanks once again fellas. Vanny, do you mean under the bonnet or inside the car in the driver's footwell sorry?

Post by **Vanny** » 02 Apr 2008

up in the cabin/driver foot well, about 36" up the fire wall

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 03 Apr 2008

Nope, thats the heater blower motor full speed relay.

Not aware that the main beam "flash" was driven through a relay at all??

Almost certainly either a fuck up in the feed for the switch, or the switch itself.
Sounds like the contact in the switch that feeds the flash is burnt. Since the other half of the same contact works the main beam when the switch is turned on for the dip beam like...

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 03 Apr 2008

Just checked wiring for rear lights: the way the tow bar has been wired in is, erm, mindboggling. Couldn't see any loose wires at rear light connections though the one for the boot light had one wire on and one off. The one off seems to be the earth for it but when I touched it on the body it arced like a fucker!
Took apart and reconnected rear light block connectors (both sides) but made fuck all difference so far, though haven't actually cleaned the connections as such. Will have another go at weekend and see how I get on. Curiously the last four times I've gone to turn the car over it's gone first time instead of pissing about wiggling the ignition switch/key but just now after examining rear light wiring the central locking has decided to throw a wobbly and doesn't work

Doc: do you reckon changing the whole light swuitch arm on the steering column for a known good one would work mate? Cheers.

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 03 Apr 2008

I AM A KOBHEAD! Super Pilsy has been up and spotted one plug on the n/s/r light wasn't in. Now rear lights are working like good un's. Haven't cracked the central locking yet though, will have a look at weekend, is there a fuse for it? Cheers.

Post by **Vanny** » 03 Apr 2008

fucking and told you so!!!!!!!!!!!

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 03 Apr 2008

Yes indeed. However a pm will be winging it's way to you shortly old lad.

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 04 Apr 2008

It's certainley worth trying the switch, they can and do die, they cope with quite a high load (current) and the contacts can burn out.
Easy enough to change so start there, if that doesn't work (and I suspect it will) get back to us and we'll go from there.

As for the central locking..
Does the car have a remote plipper?
If not, does the central locking work from the passenger door, or is it totally dead?

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 04 Apr 2008

Central locking used to work mate as did the plipper. The plipper wouldn't unlock the n/s/f door but that wasn't a problem. I'll try the switch but the car may be heading for a new owner or the weigh in yard shortly!

docchevron132 · Post by **docchevron132** » 04 Apr 2008

Already?!
Bloody hell Billy, you aint been and bought another pup have ya??

Post by **PiLsY.** » 04 Apr 2008

The radiator is staying cold even though the engine is up to temp and beyond. Suspect thermostat or gunked up radiator. Has a bloody funny looking drivers side front sphere which rubs the bodywork. Oil seems to be leaking slowly from the top of the dipstick. Water doesnt pressurise but smells a little odd and feels slightly oily - could just be very old though. Can hear some sort of slight pressure escape (high pitched whine that slowly dies off) after the engine is switched off. Seems to be coming from the diesel pump area. Can't see anything leaking out though. Alternator belt is squealing.

Front height corrector is fubar (one of my spares is at vannys farm) and is doing nothing, rear works a little, but until the front is unstuck I doubt its being moved much. I can hear metal movement noises from the front HC when the height lever is moved, but its incredibly stiff and the front end doesnt budge.

Plipper is working, batteries are fine. Drivers door handle got stuck, since then central locking hasnt worked. Doesnt work by manually locking the drivers door either.

Bodywork is very good apart from cloudy paint on the drivers side. Couldnt find any noteworthy tin worm.

The electrics have been savaged at some point. Theres evidence of an alarm having been fitted, plus possbly an amp or cd changer as there are bodged fuses in the fuse box. The towbar "electrics" at the n/s rear cluster can only be described as chronic. Looks like a texas execution chamber in the boot.

It needs a bit of effort putting into it as do all BX's, but could be a goodun. The faults seem pretty genuine and it looks like the seller just lost interest in it. The only worry is the evidence of multiple water hoses having blown off in the past (and the car having been driven like this too), so the head *could* be questionable.

Having said that it went like any other BX TD would on the way back from oswestry, so I'm likely just being paranoid.

Post by **Vanny** » 04 Apr 2008

well i might be able to popple over at some point, needs some serious (cost free) maintenance but to be honest nothing either of you two clowns have said sounds critical.

Madcav · Post by **Madcav** » 04 Apr 2008

Ta. I took it work today and thrashed the absolute fuck out of it and it went VERY well indeed. VERY well. Smoked when I started it to go home earlier but seemed to clear up. I'm just concerned that the height correctors don't let go when I'm in it tbh, especially if towing a caravan. The other faults I can live with. Oh, stereo doesn't work now either so assuming same fuse as c/l? Also, if this is the case, could someone tell me where exactly the fuse is situated? Free internet virtual kicking for the first one who says fusebox

TZD electrical and other problems...