BXProject

[Philhod]

There is a very slight surge in voltage as you start but it settles down to around 21 volts at the amp range we are using.
Use ohm's law, your input is 240 @13 amps. your Amperage varies on the rheo so the voltage will change but in a very small range of about 6 volts.

The smallest Flux cored used to be 1.4 mm Bandit and I think thats outside your sets range.
We used to use 2.4 mm fc, but that was on very thick plate (50 mm+) but even then still used C02 as well.
On second thoughts your set would run it but you would need to get new roller guides and tips.

[mat_the_cat]

You can get 0.9mm now, but at £60 for a 5kg reel then I'll pass on that thanks. IIRC on my first welder (el cheapo one that died when I connected it to a generator) to use the flux cored wire you swapped the polarity round - is that right Phil?

[Philhod]

It will work on either Mat. They recommended +earth on thin stuff so the arc would jump away from the job to prevent arc blow at start up.

We used a synergic process for thick stuff. - earth AC, but with a timed pulsed arc. (325 amps for 2.4 wire)

Best way to describe it would be to imagine the sine wave.
Well this one was square. almost precipitous jump from + to - , with a hold at wave top and btm. This produces a swirl as the spray switches on and off.
All very technical just suffice to say, it allowed you to deposit a good quality bead around 6mm thick by about 20 mm wide each pass. Actually it wasn't cool it was fooking hot.

[Bx Bandit]

I tend to use setting 2 low most of the time on car stuff, going up to 2 high if I don't get enough penetration, and down to 1 high if I'm blowing through. Another thing I've noticed is that I may start on a slightly higher setting for tacking things in place, and then find I need to drop it down a bit once I start seam welding and the heat gets into the metal.

Hmmm, don't know if that's the difference between sets but a 2 Low would blow holes in the thin stuff. Not used 2 High on the car. 1 High is my setting of choice mate. I agree with spotting though - in fact a 2 low didn't work spotting yesterday but I was trying to weld on top of that weld primer stuff and it didn't take, I just managed to plug the hole I drilled in the plate

Hopefully the drizzle has gone now and I'd best flex my wire!

[mat_the_cat]

Could just be the difference in cars, I haven't welded anything on the BX since the hinges 6 years ago. I would guess that BXs tend to be a little thinner than most, certainly than the Disco which is the last thing I spent any time welding recently.

[Bx Bandit]

Got piccies!!!

Front end fixorized and gummed with seam sealer


As above side view


That's the best welding and patch work I've done. Quite pleased overall.


Quick clean up and lick of paint


Are mudflaps ghey?

[David]

No, mudflaps aren't ghey, but that rather choffing great dent in your front wing is! I think I've got a red wing you could have...

One other thing that springs to mind. Bear in mind that MOT rules now say that any repair section must have full seam welding, even if the bit in question was originally only spot welded, so that sill repair section theoretically is a fail. That said, seam sealant and bitumastic paint hide a multitude of sins....

[Philhod]

It has caused problems with that rule David, because on the MOT rule it isn't clear and testers fail stuff incorrectly.

The construction and use regs clarify the wording welded patchwork must be fully welded.
However, edge to edge seams (like where Bandit has drilled) spotwelds, or window welds are allowed at a max distance of 50 mm.

That welding looks rather smart Bandit
When you were discussing settings and burning through, the simple answer is move along faster
at the same feed setting. the bead becomes narrower but you won't burn through and you will get good penitration.
It's always nice when you get good penitration

[mat_the_cat]

Nice one! Time for a well earned beer?

[docchevron132]

looks alright from here! oh, and what David said, plenty of bitumastic (I have some in stock if you need a bit), sikaflex or spunk hides almost anything!

[David]

looks alright from here! oh, and what David said, plenty of bitumastic (I have some in stock if you need a bit), sikaflex or spunk hides almost anything!

Don't buy any more Bitumen paint. I bought 25l about 7 years ago and I've still got 20l left.. PLEASE use some of it!

[Philhod]

I've always found spunk does tend to show up rather than.....

[Bx Bandit]

No, mudflaps aren't ghey, but that rather choffing great dent in your front wing is! I think I've got a red wing you could have...

One other thing that springs to mind. Bear in mind that MOT rules now say that any repair section must have full seam welding, even if the bit in question was originally only spot welded, so that sill repair section theoretically is a fail. That said, seam sealant and bitumastic paint hide a multitude of sins....

That's rediculous. Fuck I'll be most dis chuffed if he fails me on that! Depends which tester I get as one knows me well enough and trusts me, but the other guy is a little more by the book.
I've coated the bottom parts of the sill with under body stuff but I'll have a ganders to see if the spots are still visible. I still have the chassis leg to do but I'm tempted to wang it in for MOT anyway today as at least if the plod stops me I can say I'm on to it - although technically it's still illegal I guess?

Yes that dent is pretty bad but it's an old wing off my TGD. I got my two best red wings nice and dry in the garage waiting for a respray (and have been for about two years now ) but thanks David, much appreciated.

Yet again Phil I think you're spot on, partly due to position but also due to concentration (or lack of it) my movement is somewhat erratic as is the position of the gun but it's definitely getting better and I quite often get that nice sizzle sound until I do summat wrong at it'll start popping like a bitch! What does the popping mean?

Sorry David, I can't help you out on the bitumen paint side of things as I have 2.5 ltr tin!!!!

Mat - I did indeed and 1/2 a bottle of red!

[mat_the_cat]

Mat - I did indeed and 1/2 a bottle of red!

Only 1/2? Lightweight!

Best of luck for the rest of the weldathon and the MOT anyway.

[Bx Bandit]

Afraid so mate, 1/2 is a safe measure, although with this effin cold I have I felt rough this morning anyway. In fact, I've felt rough all day.......BUT......the good news is that whilst the car didn't pass the MOT, it only failed on a ball joint which is sooooooo loose it rather concerns me that I hadn't noticed it.

That means I can leave the welding to the chassis leg till another day, although I really want to get the sills waxoyled. Has anyone had experience/recommend a pressurised air fed gun for spraying waxoyl? I was hoping a £15 job might do but it seems they can't ' suck up the waxoyl as it's too thick.

Or anyone heard/used this stuff

[mat_the_cat]

I've heard of it, that and Dinitrol seem to get better results than Waxoyl in classic car mag tests. Never used it myself, but found Dinitrol seems to be more penetrative than Waxoyl. But a lot more pricy, and I figured there was no point in putting off a job like rustproofing till I could better afford it so I use good ol' Waxoyl usually.
I've got a cheap gun and 2 footish extension tube from Machine Mart, but I can't find it on their website. Never had a problem even with cold fluid, but I reckon it's best to warm it to help seep into the seams. They're about a trillion times better than the pump up type can you can buy!

[David]

They're about a trillion times better than the pump up type can you can buy!

I have one of those and it is without doubt remarkably shit.

Heated waxoyl in an air spray gun will get it everywhere.

[mat_the_cat]

And if the little air bleed screw gets blocked, the gun will blow off the can and you will literally get waxoyl everywhere!

[jayw]

I'd just go for good old Shutz, i've got a spare gun & full can in the shed going begging as long as you've got a compressor! Even think i might even have an extension tube for cavities too...

Shutz: Brilliant & Cheap!

[Bx Bandit]

oooh If I can borra the gun mate that's be great timing. I do have a compressor yes. I thought shutz was for stonechip type paint and waxoyl was a bit too think??? Heck, if it works then hey! I'll replace you a new can for the old in case the stuff has a shelf life!

I have one of those pump type ones - a major PITA and hopeless with the extension probe. The only time I used it was when it was fairly cold and the stuff kept 'freezing' in the pipe the moment you stopped spraying - regardless of the cannister being in hot water..........