BXProject

Got me some welding to do on Charlies motah, rear o/s sill, the same place mine went on my deedow. I used a 3mm plate to keep the heat etc off the tank, but I find myself slightly more concerned that Charlie has 3/4 of Petroleum in his tank!

Any thoughts before I explode to death?

It also phailed on rear brake pipes - one actually ruptured during the test! I'm hoping I've got the ones of my TGD but any tips please?

A full tank is less likely to go bang than an empty tank mate.
It's the vapours that ignite the easiest.

I'd still put something between the piece you're welding and the tank, and do it somewhere very well ventilated, if you can stick a little leccy fan under the wing pointing towards the breather if it's the OS sill..

As for brake pipes, I cant make any right now, since I have no unions left..

They should undo out of the calipers ok, but they tend to be a ballache at the connector piece on the axle tube.
A REALLY good pair of mole grips maybe yout friend here.

What ee said, but soak the ends with easing for about 2 hours first and well mine always undo ok.
When welding anywhere near the tank I always tuck soaking wet rags up in between. Also have a bucket of water on hand with a big wet rag in that. I've occasionally set fire to hidden fuel pipes, (especially those shit plastic ones). A slap with the soaking wet rag douses it instantly.

Doesn't stop the fuel leaking out though, if you hole one o' they.

Right, a bucket and cloth it is. Deep breath................

A further bit of investigation by Charles shows it to be the pipe from front to back. I got 3 long pipes when I visited Aaron, hopefully one of them is the right one. The alternative is to remove the rusty section and join in a good 'end'. Anyone done this?
I'm guessing a 3mm compression type fitting?

As far as I'm aware Bandit, the 4 full lengths are still available and only cost around £15.
So's it's not worth fuckin around. The job is straightforward enough. Just be careful with the plastic clips that hold them all together. They are a bastard to open without damaging them and they don't close properly if you do

they do with a ziptie!
3.5mm mate, unless the car has ABS in which case the brake pipe is 4.5mm.

still available new yes, although an utter arsefold to fit without dropping the subframe or wrecking the shape of the pre formed pipe.

Yeah, I've spliced loads of HP pipes, but you need the correct flaring tool and fittings, and we dont got any left sadly.
Did attempt to get some of Plopease, but they weren't that interested in actually selling anything.

I just stick it on 4 legs Doc and let it droop. They go in a treat. I have 2 zips on the present car

yeah, dropping the fornt down a few inches makes it piss easy, but people seem to get all sweaty at the thought of dropping th subframe a bit..

Dont need to with kunifer pipes mind..

£15???????? Really? Where be from?

We is talking rear subframe yes? Just remove the 4 bolts and let her drop a bit?

Where does the other end go? In the FDV is it?

Oooh, looks like doseur valve on pr net??

This is the prnet drawing




Tis item 6 that has blown. I seems to go to D valve but I'm thinking this is for LHD as the RHD will have to go t'other side and I assume they would put an elbow in rather than 1 pipe going across front subframe?????

On mine they all go into a block or a line of connectors at the side of the front frame.
Then each is routed to wherever it should go.

The pipe came from Rigbye's Cit main agents. It was about 3 years back and actually cost
£ 11-72.

Ahh fair play Phil, you prompted me to look up on Cits website. £18.88 I think they wanted. Not bad for Cit, I'd of expected summat daft like £50+

Poor Charlie, this has come at a bad time for him as he has family issues in derby to contend with, so he's been up more or less every week since Xmas and juggling work in between. So this has been a royal PITA - bad timing really.

To get a chance of a free re-test, we have until wed 2nd Feb to sort out the problems. Plenty of time in theory but time is a complex and misleading mistress!

Basically, if anyone can provide answers to:

is it both subframes to be dropped, or just the rear?
is that the block of connectors on the drivers side, the one that always comes unclipped from the front sub frame?

Anything else????

The welding looks like an exact copy of what I did to the TZD last spring, bar the petrol!

Front isn't a problem TBH and yes that is the clip that is loose on the drivers side.

If you put it on 4 axle stands, the rear 2 going under the cross tube and shift the back of the exhaust. all goes together quite well.
Starting with the pipe on the outside of the car you can lift and move the pipe around while you get the back bit to position. Then you just feed the rest of it into its guide clips and couple it up. If it's suspension you just switch on but brakes you have to go through the usual bleeding job which is easy enough if you have 2 of you available and some very long tube.

yeah, just the four bolts on the front mounts of the rear subframe.
The pipe, as Phil said, goes to a multiblock of 4 on the back side of the front subframe, unless it has ABS in which case it goes to the connectors on the bulkhead N/S that run to the electrovalve block.

Drop the subframe by about 3" and the whole job becomes much eaasier.
I can repipe all 4 in under an hour now.

Hmmm, I thought there were four bolts on the rear subframe period...are we talking dropping the whole subframe here or just the front or rear end of the rear subframe?

Just the front end of the rear frame Bandit. If you are only doing one, once you have it set up,
try getting it in without dropping it. I have done it successfully without on numerous occasions
but if it's a problem it only takes a few minutes to do it as Doc suggests.

Right gotcha, cheers dude

the front end of the rear subframe is attached to the car by 2 studs each side, with 16MM nuts on them, you'll need a deep reach socket aswell.