BXProject

I've given up on Chubley

Most of you know how bad the bodywork is, well it doesn't go and will just need too much spending to keep mobile. If anybody knows of a similar car but in better nick for sale could you let me know?

I'll probably end up scrapping him so if theres any bits you need let me know.

http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... 717#159717

Dont go getting a 405, you really wont like it coming from a BX!

Vanny wrote:Dont go getting a 405, you really wont like it coming from a BX!

This is true! Years ago I went from a BX GTi to a new 405 SRi and immediately the "feel" wasn't quite right. Within a couple of years I was back in the "fitting like a glove" type comfort & handling of another BX GTi.

If I hadn't bust me foot K39 would be ready. It's not an estate but in vg cond. I have about 2 weeks work left on it and it's a 19n/a TXD. Pics in the garage.

Hopefully last visit to hospital should be next monday

/\ That would be a good buy Jesus, but best look out for rot and do give that dodgy looking welding a good going over

cheeky cunt.

got him!

I been weldin' de cream machine yesterday. My welding getting better all the time mate. 2 questions for tips:
1) I can get a nice run up to about an inch (maybe a bit less) and I find I have to speed up to keep the wire in the end of the pool, but it always goes tits up (as in holes) after about an inch. Am I just moving too slowly or is the whole area generally getting too hot?
2) In some parts (normally a corner iirc) things seem to get too hot (weld looks like pummice) whats going on there?

Bx Bandit wrote:1) I can get a nice run up to about an inch (maybe a bit less) and I find I have to speed up to keep the wire in the end of the pool, but it always goes tits up (as in holes) after about an inch. Am I just moving too slowly or is the whole area generally getting too hot?

I tend to (rightly or wrongly) stop if I sense the area getting too hot, and then just let it cool so you can no longer see the glow through the mask. I don't know if that means I'm also doing something wrong, and whether you should be able to weld a continuous seam on sheet metal without ever blowing through?

Bx Bandit wrote:2) In some parts (normally a corner iirc) things seem to get too hot (weld looks like pummice) whats going on there?

Sounds like insufficient gas, but why that would coincide with a corner I don't know...

maybe you're moving the torch angle too much through corners?

Too hot? turn juice down or move quicker.

Burning through? turn down juice and speed feed.

Pumice??? Porosity? increase gas feed, you are allowing the shield to fail and oxidising.

It's all about practice and gaining a steady relaxed movement and keeping your angles approximately the same. Keeping the torch at an angle and pushing along keeps heat down too. when you have the torch more or less vertical so you can move either way tends to let the heat build up.

As your skill develops the only reason to stop is when you get tired and be able to put down at least a couple of feet in one pass.

As I told you at the start, use a piece of same thickness scrap and get your conditions set up right, before you begin.

As I told you at the start, use a piece of same thickness scrap and get your conditions set up right, before you begin.

I did Guv. All sorted for the straight runs except when I weren't going fast enough - which i didn't quite click at the time. But it was upside down in the sill.....

I tend to not get decent results if I turn the juice down to the lowest notch (it's a switch type rather than dial)

The pummice only occurs in the corner - I guess heat builds up a bit more in a corner....? Hence more gas...?

Doc, that's another thing i need to work on - me angles in corners

If you turn the juice down you need to slow the feed accordingly and O/H is never the best position for MIG anyway.

The heat build in corners is usually down to slowing down and changing torch angle to verticle.
The heat has little to do with porrosity, it's just you have too low a gas flow and the arc is losing it's shield.

Another technique for corners on thin stuff, is to put a tack there first then allow to cool before starting. This thickens the metal at that point and saves burning through.

Here endeth todays epistle.

Another problem with corners is that its harder to clean the metal where you can't get to it as well and shitty welds tend to follow.

I always thought that you were meant to stitch weld bodywork anyway to try and cut down distortion.

Any patch you put in anywhere requires tacking in first. On this thickness tacks are enough.


Where you have corners with limited access I was suggesting tacking in those corners first to prevent burn through.
You are not likely to get much distortion unless you were doing say a joint abaout 2ft long and even then tacks are enough. Any distortion can be corrected with a couple of hammers.

Your corner lecture speaks much truth sire
I did more weldage on Thursday and made a right rats groin of it. Horrible. I was rushing a tad which doesn't help but fuck me vicar it was a gooses snatch of a job. i can make it good but it was one of them days when you wanna drop kick the set into next xmas

Don't worry about it Bandit, some days are just not for welding.

I kid you not. We used to have to do the ASME 9 test, everytime we hadn't used a certain process for 6 months. This was to be certified to weld on specific contracts.
Had to spend a day in the welding school to produce the required test pieces.

Some days (usually on the piss the night before) I couldn't put a decent run down to save my life. By dinner time It was obvious I wasn't going to get any better, so I usually fucked off home, and started afresh (sober) the following day

I have says like that. no matter what I do it all turns to shit, so I leave it. Other days I get a perfect weld all day..

You know I think being hungover (or not) has quite a bit to do with it Still, I shall finish it off next week. Charlie plans to sell the cream machine and buy a 2CV!